Before my trip to Naples, I had been invited by John Peller to taste his latest release – JEP XXI (John Edward Peller, blended in 2021). This a Bordeaux-style blend from five vintages, crafted by winemaker Katie Dickieson – 45% Merlot, 35% Cabernet Franc, 20% Cabernet Sauvignon aged in 100% French oak. Deep purple in colour, with a savoury, toasty nose of plums and currants with oak spice; medium-bodied, dry, elegant and harmonious with a lovely mouth-feel, well-balanced with ripe tannins. Very much in St. Julien style. (92). The price: $79.95. This bottling celebrates the Peller company’s 100 years of winemaking in Canada.
In addition to the JEP XXI I tasted the following Peller Estate wines before dinner in the cellar:
Peller Signature Riesling 2019: Pale straw in colour; light petrol note on the citrusy, floral nose; medium-bodied, crisp in spite of 24 grams of residual sugar; lemon and grapefruit flavours with a honeyed note. (90)
Peller Private Reserve Cabernet Franc 2019: Bright ruby in colour; cedary, savoury, blueberry and plum bouquet; medium-bodied, dry, ripe plum flavour, firmly structured with well-integrated oak. (89)
Other wines tasted that week:
Lailey Dry Riesling 2019: Bright gold in colour; toasty, grapefruit with a light floral note; medium-bodied, completely dry, lime and grapefruit flavours with a thread of minerality and a long, fresh finish. (89.5)
Stonebridge Chardonnay 2019 (Four Mile Creek, 13.8% alcohol, barrel fermented and 22 months in French oak barrels, single vineyard, 700 cases, $48): Golden colour with green highlights; creamy, high-toned nose of apple with a floral note; medium to full-bodied, richly extracted peach and apple flavours. (89)
2019 Stonebridge Chardonnay Reserve West (Four Mile Creek, 13.8% alcohol, barrel fermented and 20 months in French oak barrels, single vineyard/single block, 193 cases, $78): Bright golden colour with green highlights; high-toned, nutty, apple bouquet; full-bodied, peach flavour, lovely mouth-feel with great acidity. (91)
2019 Stonebridge Chardonnay Reserve East (Four Mile Creek, 13.8% alcohol, barrel fermented and 20 months in French oak barrels, single vineyard/single block, 162 cases, $78): Bright golden colour with green highlights; lifted nose of apple and toasty oak. Richly extracted with well-integrated oak. (90)
2018 Stonebridge Chardonnay Reserve (Four Mile Creek, 12.4% alcohol, barrel fermented and 18 months in French oak barrels, single vineyard/single block-west, 72 cases, $78): Bright golden colour; savoury, crab-apple nose with oak spice; medium-bodied, richly extracted apple and lemon flavours; Burgundian style; beautifully balanced. (91)
2017 Stonebridge Chardonnay Reserve (Four Mile Creek, 13.6% alcohol, barrel fermented and 22 months in French oak barrels, single vineyard/single block-west, 60 cases, $110): Bright, golden colour; funky, toasty, smoky, tarry nose of apple and struck flint; full-bodied, dry, apple flavour with oak spice carried on lively acidity. (90)
2019 Stonebridge Cabernet Franc (Creek Shores, 13.5% alcohol, 19 months in French oak barrels, single vineyard, 220 cases, $48): medium purple colour; meaty, toasty nose of plums with a floral top note; medium to full-bodied, dry, elegant, minty, plum flavour with a top note of violets; lively acidity and well-integrated oak. (91)
2019 Stonebridge Cabernet Franc Reserve (Twenty Mile Bench, 13.7% alcohol, 19 months in French oak barrels, single vineyard, 415 cases, $68): Purple-ruby in colour; plum bouquet with oak spice and a floral note; medium-bodied, dry; firmly structured and tight at the moment but beautifully balanced and nicely oaked. (90–92 [with bottle age])
2018 Stonebridge Cabernet Franc Reserve (Twenty Mile Bench, 13.9% alcohol, 31 months in French oak barrels, single vineyard, 76 cases, $68): Deep purple-ruby cedary, plum nose; medium to full-bodied, dry, richly extracted flavours of black cherry and dark chocolate. Well-balanced but still tight. (92)
2021 Lailey Rosé Estate Blend (Niagara River, 12.5% alcohol, 3 months in French oak barrels, single vineyard, 270 cases, $29): Amber-pink in colour; lightly floral, strawberry nose; medium-bodied, dry, nicely balanced, well-structured, great mouth-feel. (90)
2021 Lailey Orange Wine (Vidal, Niagara River, 12.5% alcohol, estate grown Vidal, single vineyard, 270 cases, $33): Pale copper-amber; floral, tangerine nose; medium-bodied, dry, with a firm finish of ripe tannins. (89)
2018 Stonebridge Syrah Reserve (St. David’s Bench, 13.2% alcohol, 30 months in French oak barrels, single vineyard, 25 cases, $78): Deep purple in colour; savoury, meaty, blackberry with a floral top note; full-bodied, dry, juicy, blackberry flavour, firmly structured finishing on a note of dark chocolate. (92)
Henry of Pelham Rosé 2021 ($14.95, LCBO #613471): Amber-pink in colour; strawberry and watermelon on the nose; medium-bodied, dry, strawberry flavour with lively acidity; great value. (89)
Quails’ Gate Dry Riesling 2020 (Okanagan Valley, $19.95, Vintages #308312, to be released July 16th): Bright, pale straw in colour; minerally, honeyed grapefruit nose with a floral top note; light-bodied, fruity, floral, grapefruit flavour; elegant, fresh with great length. (90)
Kacaba Vineyards & Winery Rebecca Rosé 2012 ($20.15, LCBO #227025, to be released in Vintages October 15th): Gamay grapes; pink with a bluish tint; strawberry nose with a mineral note; medium-bodied, dry, strawberry and cranberry flavours; crisp on the palate, well-balanced and easy drinking. (88.5)
Malivoire Estate Grown Chardonnay 2020 (Beamsville Bench, $21.95, Vintages Essential): Bright, pale straw colour; lightly floral, toasty, apple, hazel nut nose; medium-bodied, dry, richly extracted, leesy, apple and peach flavours with lemony acidity; lovely mouth-feel. (90)
Buena Vista North Coast Pinot Noir 2018 (Sonoma & Lake Counties; $24.95, Vintages #24112, to be released July 16th): Light ruby in colour; toasty, black raspberry nose with oak notes; medium to full-bodied, dry, red plum and raspberry flavours; well-balanced, lovely mouth-feel. (90)