A Wine Lover’s Diary, Part 674: Wine & Opera

Sunday, November 12th: Deborah and drove in to Toronto. I had a winerytohome tasting at Doug Towers’ and then we went to a celebration of life at our old condo for a neighbour who had passed away.

Monday, November 13th: Wrote my 680 NEWS wine reviews – four weeks’ worth so that I can cut down the number of times I have to drive into Toronto.

One of the things about moving to another city is that you have to find doctors, dentists, optometrists, cleaning ladies, gardeners, dog walkers, dry cleaners and the best Chinese food. We discovered Ma Chinese Cuisine at 123 Geneva Street. Now we have to find a good Indian restaurant.

A treestump with a large growth of tree ear mushrooms

Spotted while walking Pinot

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680 NEWS wine reviews – November 17–19, 2017

Beaujolais Nouveau
On Thursday, the LCBO released this year’s vintage of Beaujolais Nouveau. Ten new wines altogether, including two Novellos for Italy and two new wines from Reif winery in Ontario. If Beaujolais Nouveau is a harbinger of the quality of the red Burgundy vintage then 2017 is going to be a terrific year. My recommendation for Beaujolais Nouveau is the Joseph Drouhin Beaujolais-Villages Nouveau at $16.95 or the Duboeuf Gamay Nouveau, a vin de pays de L’Ardeche, at $10.95. My top Novello is Negrar Novello del Veneto at $9.95. Chill them all and enjoy their fruity, cherry-like flavours – and they are just great with roast chestnuts. That’s Joseph Drouhin Beaujolais Villages Nouveau, Duboeuf Gamay Nouveau and Negrar Novello del Veneto. For Post City Magazines, I’m Tony Aspler, 680 News.

Hacienda Valvarés 2012
Today’s recommendation is a Tempranillo from Spain’s Rioja region: Hacienda Valvarés 2012 is dense purple in colour with a spicy, high-toned nose of red plums and a cedary note. Medium-bodied and dry on the palate, it’s firmly structured with plum and red berry flavours carried on lively acidity to a firm tannic finish. It costs $18.95 at Vintages outlets and works well with roast meat dishes, especially lamb. That’s Hacienda Valvarés 2012 from Spain. For Post City Magazines, I’m Tony Aspler, 680 NEWS. ($18.95, Vintages #423509) (89)

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Wines of the Week for November 16, 2017

2017_nouxeaux

Today the LCBO releases 2017 Beaujolais Nouveau. There are ten new wines altogether, including two Novellos for Italy and two new wines from Reif winery in Ontario. If Beaujolais Nouveau is a harbinger of the quality of the red Burgundy vintage then 2017 is going to be a terrific year. My recommendation for Beaujolais Nouveau is the Joseph Drouhin Beaujolais-Villages Nouveau at $16.95 (Vintages #932780) or the Dubœuf Gamay Nouveau, a vin de pays de L’Ardeche, at $10.95 (LCBO #891846). My top Novello is Negrar Novello del Veneto at $9.95 (LCBO #899955). Chill them all and enjoy their fruity, cherry-like flavours – and they are just great with roast chestnuts.

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A Wine Lover’s Diary, Part 673: Roberto Martella Dinner

Monday, November 6th: Wrote up my wine reviews for Quench magazine and then took the train in Toronto to attend the Roberto Martella Tribute Dinner at Villa Colombo. Two hundred and ninety people sat down to dinner. Jazz pianist Gene Dinovi performed and so did my former squash partner, David Hetherington and his Amici Chamber Ensemble. Mayor John Tory spoke movingly of Roberto’s impact on the city. Several wineries donated wine for the evening and a host of chefs prepared reception dishes. Slept the night at my sister-in-law’s as I had a meeting and an event to attend in Toronto tomorrow. Continue reading

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A Wine Lover’s Diary, Part 672: Spanish Medal

Monday, October 30th: The kitchen has been dismantled awaiting the installation of the new cabinetry. Which means we’re camping out – using the microwave and the toaster oven that sit on the floor in the living room. And eating out a lot.


No cooking in this kitchen

Tuesday, October 31st (Halloween): We were concerned that our two large bags of candy would not be enough to treat the neighbourhood kids, but as it turned out we had a heap left over which we gave to the workmen. Watched the sixth game of the world series at John Nadeau’s house. John’s wife Laurie returned from a party in her Halloween costume – dressed as Elvis. Brought over a forgotten bottle that was amazingly fresh.


Laurie Nadeau as Elvis

Trinity Hill by John Hancock, Hawkes Bay Gimblett Road Syrah 2002

Received a photo from my daughter of my grandson Declan in his Halloween costume. He says he wants to be a fireman but he looks great in as a chef.


My grandson Declan in his Halloween costume

Waiting for the kids to ring the doorbell, we opened a bottle of Luigi Bosca Cabernet Sauvignon 2012 (dense ruby colour; cedary, spicy nose of plums and blackcurrants with a floral top note; medium-bodied, dry, evident oak and lively acidity; firmly structured and well-balanced black plum flavour with chalky tannins on the finish (89)).

Wednesday, November 1st: Deborah and I were invited to the Niagara Falls Chamber of Commerce annual business awards – at the Glen Frewin Theatre. Our hosts, Niagara Airbus, were up for an award as “Business of the Year.” Before the presentations there was a magic act – lots of live doves making an appearance and even a tiger who didn’t seem to be too happy to be manifested in a box in place of a scantily clad brunette. Our table ordered from the wine list a Megalomaniac Merlot and a Trius Sauvignon Blanc. The waitress arrived with a bottle of Reif Merlot which she proceeded to unscrew. When we pointed that this was the wrong wine she said that’s the only Merlot they had. When we asked where was the Trius Sauvignon Blanc, she told us we could have the Reif. Turns out they only had Reif wines. We settled for a bottle of Reif The Magician 2013 which seemed fitting, given the entertainment. Unfortunately, out hosts didn’t get the award this year. At the earlier reception I got to taste two wines from a new Niagara winery, Lundy Manor.

Lundy Manor Wine Cellars Proprietor's Blend 2013

Thursday, November 2nd: Began writing my Quench commentary on sparkling wine in Canada. Dinner at David and Deborah Bergen’s, our neighbours a few streets over in Port Dalhousie. Pinot was also invited and disgraced herself by immediately peeing on the rug by the door to the deck. She was obviously marking her territory, as the Bergens have a magnificent black English Water Dog named Higgins.


The Bergens’ English Water Dog, Higgins


Pinot in disgrace

David, who bakes his own bread, made a sensational Italian meal. I brought over a bottle of Villa Saletta Borgo Saletta 2004, a Bordeaux-style blend from Tuscany. We also demolished 16 Mile Civility Chardonnay 2013, Bersano Gavi 2016 and Vallana Gattinara 2007.


Dinner party wines

Friday, November 3rd: Up at 6 am to leave with Michael Pinkus for Toronto by GO train for the Vintages release tasting. Attended a lunch tasting of Culmina wines from the southern Okanagan, hosted by Sara Triggs at Bisha Hotel on Blue Jays Way.


Culmina’s Sara Triggs

  • Culmina Decora Riesling 2016 ($29): straw colour with a spicy, grapefruit nose lifted by a afloral note; fresh and lively on the palate with lemony acidity (89).
  • Culmina Unicus Grűner Veltiner 2016 ($42.60): pale straw colour; minerally, peach pit nose; medum-bodied, firmly structured, grapefruit and green pepper flavours with a touch of bitterness on the finish. (88)
  • Culmina Dilemma Chardonnay 2015 ($46.50): golden straw colour; spicy, dry, full-bodied with richly etxratced green pear and citrus flavours. (89)
  • Culmina R & D Rosé Blend 2016 ($27.60): a blend of Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet franc and Malbec. Orange-amber in colour; minerally, redcurrant bouquet; medium-bodied, dry, well-extracted banana and cherry flavours with a firm finish. (88.5)
  • Culmina Cabernet Sauvignon 2014 ($58.00): dense purple colour; cedary, plum nose with vanilla ok; full-bodied, dry, concentrated black plum and cherry flavours with a bitter chocolate note. (90)
  • Culmina Merlot 2014 ($56.00): dense purple-black in colour (“No wall-flowers in the red camp here,” was Sara’s note); savoury, cedary, plum with a herbal note on the nose; fll-bodied, dry, firmly structured, blueberry flavour with a tannic lift on the finish. (91)
  • Culmina Hypothesis 2013 ($46.50): Bordeaux-style blend; dense purple colour; spicy, cedary, plum nose; medium-bodied, dry somewhat austere and closed at the moment; bitter chocolate and black fruit flavours with a little greenness. Needs time.
  • Culmina R & D Blend 2015 ($37.00): All five Bordeaux varieties. Dense purple colour; cedary, black fruits on the nose; medium to full-bodied, dry, savoury-herbal flavours of black plum and currants; firmly structured with ripe tannins. (90)

Culmina R & D Blend 2015; label includes a photograph of the Triggs twins as boys
The Triggs twins – Donald is on the left

After the tasting I made my way to Billy Bishop Airport to fly to Ottawa. Tomorrow I am to receive a medal from the Spanish government, presented by the Spanish ambassador, Ruiz Molero. Checked into the ByWard Blue Inn in the market district and dined with my old friend and wine writer colleague Rod Phillips at Play. Had a glass of Pfeffingen Weissburgunder 2015 with my grilled calamari, followed by steak tartare.

Pfeffingen Weissburgunder 2015

Saturday, November 4th: Taxied over to the Spanish ambassador’s residence in Rockliffe Park for the presentation ceremony of Spain’s Order of Civil Merit. My old friend Miguel Torres was there and also Debbie Trenholm of Savvy Company. Following a wine reception, Ambassador Ruiz Molero presented me with the medal and citation scroll before sitting down to a delicious lunch.

The medal in its case
Honoured and proud to receive Spain’s Order of Civil Merit


Miguel Torres (left), me and my medal, the Spanish ambassador Ruiz Molero


Lunch menu

Debbie kindly dropped me at the airport for the Porter flight back to Toronto. Took the GO train to Burlington, where Deborah picked me up. A very exciting day.

 

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