A Wine Lover’s Diary, part 951: Big Head, Kacaba and a Huge Arterra Tasting

Lipinski Olusia

Monday, November 18th: A meeting with Andrezj Lipinski at Big Head winery. Andrezj makes 40 different wines and had we had more time, no doubt, he would have insisted we taste them all. We settled for five:

Lipinski Family Olusia Blanc de Noirs sparkling wine (named for the Lipinski family’s first dog – a 16-year-old pit bull terrier who passed away in 2010; $175)
106 months on the lees, from the 2016 harvest. Deep golden colour; toasty, red apple nose; medium-bodied, dry, rich and full on the palate; beautifully balanced and lingering, with an intriguing touch of bitterness on the finish. (90)

Lipinski Chenin Blanc 2022/2023 (to be bottled in January. This is an amazing wine, potentially a 100-point bottle. Also to be bottled in January is Lipinski Syrah 2023, which I tasted this past February and noted it could be the first Ontario wine I could be giving a 100-point score!)

Lipinski Chardonnay 2021 (carbonic, 21 months in 75% fourth-fill Slavonian oak, 25% Moldovan oak, $90)
Deep straw in colour; toasty, spicy, floral apple bouquet; rich and full on the palate, dry, spicy, apple and peach flavours with a lemony, fresh finish. (92)

Lipinski Chardonnay 2021

Lipinski Viognier 2022 (fermented in terracotta, then two months in neutral oak, $90)
Old gold colour; honeyed, honeysuckle, peach bouquet; medium-bodied, dry; aromatic, perfumed peach flavour. (92)

Lipinski Viognier 2022

Tasted a range of Kacaba Vineyards wines:

Kacaba Jennifer’s Pinot Gris 2023 (Niagara Peninsula)
Pale straw in colour with a faint pink tint; minerally, peach pit bouquet; medium-bodied, crisply dry with white peach flavour and an intriguing touch of bitterness on the end taste. Drink now. (89)

Kacaba Riesling Reserve 2023 (Niagara Lakeshore)
Very pale straw, almost water white; minerally, lime and white pepper on the nose; medium-bodied, dry, grapefruit and lime flavours. Long, fresh finish. Can be opened now but the acidity will help it age for five years plus. (90)

Kacaba whites and sparkling

Kacaba Merlot 2019 (Niagara Escarpment)
Deep ruby in colour; cedary, black plum nose overlaid with pencil lead and oak spice; medium to full-bodied, dry, savoury, plum and red berry flavours; well-balanced, firmly structured with ripe tannins. Hold 1–2 years. (89)

Kacaba Terraced Vineyard Syrah 2021 (Niagara Escarpment)
Bright ruby colour; cedary, mulberry nose with oak spice and a note of black pepper; medium to full-bodied, dry, blackberry flavour; well-balanced, well-integrated oak; lovely mouth feel, great length. Drink now and through 2026. (91)

Kacaba Meritage 2021 (Niagara Escarpment)
Deep ruby in colour; spicy, cedary, blackcurrant and blueberry bouquet with vanilla oak notes; medium-bodied, dry, well-extracted flavours of black fruits carried on a spine of lively acidity; firmly structured, ending on a savoury, herbal note. Can be opened now but will reward 1–2 years cellaring. (90–92)

Kacaba reds

Thursday, November 21st: Arterra was kind enough to Uber me to their offices in Mississauga for a tasting of wines from their portfolio. Here are the wines I tasted and the scores I gave them:

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  • Champagne Palmer Brut Reserve ($85) (93 points)
  • Champagne Palmer Blanc de Blancs (94)
  • Kew Vineyard Blanc de Blancs (89)
  • Harvey & Harriet White Blend 2022 (San Luis Obispo) (89)
  • Robert Mondavi Sauvignon Blanc 2022 (92)
  • Jackson-Triggs Entourage 2018 (89)
  • Le Clos Jordanne Jordan Village Chardonnay 2021 (91)
  • Domaine Curry Sauvignon Blanc 2023 (91) Napa Valley
  • Clos Jordanne Le Grand Clos Chardonnay 2021 (93)
  • Inniskillin Pinot Noir 2022
  • Inniskillin Discovery Series Blanc de Franc (89)
  • Jackson-Triggs White Meritage 2023 (89)
  • Inniskillin Pinot Gris 2023 (89)
  • Jackson-Triggs Red Meritage 2022 (90)
  • Domaine Curry Founder’s Blend 2021 (88)
  • Harvey & Harriet Red Wine Blend 2021 (91)
  • Jackson-Triggs Shiraz 2022 (90)
  • The Prisoner Cabernet Sauvignon 2021 (90)
  • Clos Jordanne Le Grand Clos Pinot Noir (91)
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