Winemaker Jonathan McLean at work
Wednesday, March 20th: Participated in a zoom presentation of a new documentary produced by Winemasters TV Beaujolais about Georges Duboeuf, narrated by his grandson Adrien Lacombe. It was beautifully shot and I learned information about the region I did not know – that Duboeuf produces almost half the volume of Beaujolais wine; that 30% of the winery’s production is Beaujolais Nouveau and Beaujolais-Villages Nouveau; that Beaujolais-Villages Nouveau is given a longer maceration time than Beaujolais Nouveau to give the wine more structure; that Duboeuf is the largest negociant in the region; and that two-thirds of the world’s acreage of Gamay is planted in the Beaujolais region. 98% of the vines in the region are Gamay; the other 2% are Chardonnay.
Steak dinner with a bottle of Claymore Wines Dark Side of the Moon Shiraz 2021 (Clare Valley; $19.95, Vintages #72652, to be released on May 11th): Opaque, purple black in colour; spicy, blackberry and black olive bouquet; full-bodied, dry, savoury, blackberry and plum flavours , well-balanced and seamless wine with a fine spine of acidity and a peppery, herbal note, finishing on a touch of salt. Intriguing. (92)
Friday, March 22nd: Tasting at Black Bank Hill winery on Sann Road in Beamsville, on property that made up a part of the former Beamsville Aerodrome, which acted as a training ground for pilots during the First World War. The winery is owned by Taylor Emerson, whose background is digital media with the Weather Network. His cousin, Jonathan McLean, is the winemaker. Emerson bought the 22-acre property in 2017 and planted the vineyard the following year.
Taylor Emerson
Black Bank Hill Rosé 2022 (94% Cabernet Franc, 6% Merlot – 24 hours of skin contact)
Coppery-amber in colour; red apple and strawberry bouquet; medium-bodied, dry, richly extracted, fresh and lively on the palate. Flavourful and great texture. A Provence-style rosé. (89)
Black Bank Hill Runway White 2021 (The Runway White and Red are blends, paying homage to the aerodrome that used to be on the property) (46% Viognier, 26% Gewürztraminer, 17% Chardonnay, and 11% Chenin Blanc)
Pale straw in colour; spicy, toasty, peachy nose; medium to full-bodied, dry, spicy, peachy flavour, round mouth feel. (90)
Black Bank Hill Chardonnay 2020 (Wingfield Vineyard fruit) (46% Viognier, 26% Gewürztraminer, 17% Chardonnay, and 11% Chenin Blanc)
Straw colour with a lime tint; toasty, apple nose with a saline note; medium-bodied, beautifully balanced, fresh and lively on the palate. Reminiscent of a Premier Cru Chablis. Lots of flavour here. (91)
Black Bank Hill Viognier 2021 (four-year-old vines)
Pale straw in colour; aromatic, spicy, toasty nose of ripe peach; medium-bodied, dry, peach and lime flavours with a saline note. Great mouth feel, firmly structured with an intriguing notte of almon bitterness on the finish for added interest. (89)
Black Bank Hill Runway Red 2020 (60% Merlot, 20% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Cabernet Franc).
Cedary, spicy, toasty nose of black fruits; oak dominant at the moment, firmly structured with evident tannins. Bordeaux’s Blaye style. Needs time (89–90)
Black Bank Hill Runway Red 2021 (57% Cabernet Franc, with Merlot, Pinot Noir, a little Cabernet Sauvignon and a touch of Syrah)
Ruby colour with a purple tint; spicy, toasty, plum and blackcurrant bouquet; full-bodied, firmly structured, black cherry and currant flavours; prominent tannins and a touch of volatile acidity that gives the nose a lift. (88)
Black Bank Hill Pinot Noir 2020 (fruit from Glen Elgin and End of the Road Vineyards)
Light ruby in colour; cherry and vanilla on the nose; medium-bodied, dry, raspberry flavour; firmly structured, creamy mouth feel; finishing of red meat note and evident tannins. (90)
Black Bank Hill Cabernet Franc 2020
Deep purple-ruby in colour; high-toned, cedary, vanilla, plum and blackcurrant nose with a floral top note; medium-bodied, dry, firmly structured but elegant; great balance; fine spine of acidity and a saline note on the finish. (90)
Black Bank Hill Syrah 2020 (third leaf fruit)
Dense purple in colour; mulberry, vanilla, black pepper and oak spice on the nose; full-bodied, dry, Northern Rhône-style; beautifully balanced, sweet blackberry and black olive flavours with a cracked pepper note. A beautiful wine! (93–94)
Black Bank Hill Syrah 2021
Deep purple colour; peppery, blackberry nose with oak spice and vanilla notes; full-bodied, great energy, fresh and lively, firmly structured and well-integrated oak. Savoury, blackberry and olive flavours. Cornas-style. (93)
Black Bank Hill’s price list
A remarkable debut!
In the evening Deborah and I went to Archives in Port Dalhousie for a tasting of Southbrook wines – in the presence of the owner Bill Redelmeir – which always makes the wines taste better! We tasted Southbrook Amphora Gamay 2021, Triomphe Pinot Noir 2021, Cabernet Franc 2021 and the 2000 Chardonnay served out of a decanter by Robbie, the owner of Archives.
Other wines tasted this week: Rosewood “Night Moves” Gamay 2020, Ravine Vineyard Meritage 2021, Little Engine Pinot Noir 2020 (Okanagan Valley).
