Tuesday, February 28th: Fresh from his triumph in Paris at the Master Winemakers Awards, Andrzej Lipinski invited me to taste his new Lipinski wines at his Niagara-on-the-Lake winery, Big Head. He explained the symbolism of his new label that features a cluster of four heart-shaped linden leaves (representing members of his family). The choice of leaf speaks to his Polish heritage. Linden in Polish is “lipa,” which suggests the derivation of his family name. According to World Sensorium, “The wood of the Linden tree is used in traditional Polish wood carvings, its dried flowers are used for teas which alleviate stomach pain and insomnia, and according to folklore its scent is thought to dispel evil spirits.” So maybe the bouquet of Lipinski’s wine will have the same effect!
Note the new label’s linden leaf logo
Olusia Blanc de Noirs sparkling wine (named for the Lipinski family’s first dog – a 16-year-old pit bull terrier who passed away in 2010, $175)
106 months on the lees, from the 2016 harvest. Deep golden colour; toasty, red apple nose; medium-bodied, dry, rich and full on the palate; beautifully balanced and lingering, with an intriguing touch of bitterness on the finish. (90)
Lipinski Chenin Blanc 2022 (carbonic whole-cluster fermentation, $90)
Deep golden colour; full-bodied (13.7% alcohol), dry; intense rich peach and lemon flavours. Beautifully balanced A gorgeous wine. (92)
Lipinski Chardonnay 2021 (carbonic, 21 months in 75% fourth-fill Slavonian oak, 25% Moldovan oak, $90)
Deep straw in colour; toasty, spicy, floral apple bouquet; rich and full on the palate, dry, spicy, apple and peach flavours with a lemony, fresh finish. (92)
Lipinski Viognier 2022 (fermented in terracotta, then two months in neutral oak, $90)
Old gold colour; honeyed, honeysuckle, peach bouquet; medium-bodied, dry; aromatic, perfumed peach flavour. (92)
Lipinski Pinot Noir 2021 (carbonic maceration, fermented in terracotta, $125)
Ruby with a tawny rim; earthy, tealeaf, mushroom and strawberry bouquet; medium-bodied, dry, elegant, firmly structured; raspberry and strawberry flavours; lovely mouthfeel. (92–93)
Lipinski Genia 2020 (named for his mother-in-law, $175)
A blend of 40% Cabernet Franc, 29% Merlot, 13% Petit Verdot, 6.5% Malbec, 6.5% Syrah and 5% Cabernet Sauvignon. Full appassimento. Three years in new Moldovan oak barrels. Deep ruby in colour; toasty, cedary, vanilla and blackberry on the nose; full-bodied, dry, richly extracted blackberry and black plum flavours; firmly structured with ripe tannins. Needs time. (92–94)
Lipinski Lonia 2020 (named for his mother, $250)
A blend of 27% Cabernet Franc, 27% Merlot, 17% Malbec, 16% Cabernet Sauvignon, 8% Syrah, 5% Petit Verdot. Deep purple-ruby colour; smoky, vanilla, cedary, toasty black fruit nose; full-bodied and palate-filling, succulent mulberry flavour (reminiscent of the red wines name in the Douro). (93–94)
The tasting ended with a tank sample of Lipinski’s 2023 Syrah that weighs in at 16.2 degrees of alcohol. This wine has enormous potential and is the best Syrah I have tasted in Ontario. A potential 100-point wine once it’s bottled!
Backyard Vineyards in BC’s Langley Valley is an hour’s drive from Vancouver. The winemaker is Liam Berti.
Backyard Vineyards Pinot Gris 2022 (Okanagan Valley)
Pale straw in colour; struck flint, peach pit nose; medium to full-bodied, dry, peach and lemon flavours, beautifully balanced, with fresh acidity that gives the wine great length. Drink now and through 2025. (90)
Backyard Vineyards Viognier Reserve 2021 (BC)
90% Viognier with 10% Chardonnay. Pale straw colour; minerally, aromatic honeysuckle and white peach nose; medium-bodied, dry, peachy-melon flavour with a fine spine of acidity. Lovely mouthfeel. Drink now and through 2025. (91)
Backyard Vineyards Cabernet Merlot 2020 (BC)
Deep purple-ruby in colour; cedary, spicy, blackberry and blackcurrant bouquet with vanilla notes; medium to full-bodied, dry, richly extracted black fruit flavours supported by ripe tannins, carried on lively acidity. Can be opened with pleasure now but will reward with 1–2 years in cellar. (90–92)
Backyard Vineyards Cabernet Franc Reserve 2020 (BC)
Deep purple colour; cedary, spicy, plum and blackcurrant bouquet; full-bodied, dry, well extracted flavours of black plum and currants; beautifully balanced with firm tannins and fresh acidity, finishing on a note of bitter chocolate. Hold for 1–2 years. (91)
Backyard Vineyards Syrah 2020 (BC)
Deep purple colour; cedary, spicy, peppery, mulberry nose with oak spice; medium to full-bodied, dry, savoury, blackberry flavour; well-integrated oak and mouth-freshening acidity. Can be opened now but another year in bottle will enhance the bouquet. (90–91)
Backyard Vineyards Syrah Reserve 2020 (BC)
Deep purple colour; intense, peppery, mulberry nose with oak spice; medium to full-bodied, juicy blackberry flavour with black olive note carried on lively acidity. Drinking well now but worth holding 1–2 years. (92)
Other wines tasted this week:
Malivoire Estate Grown Chardonnay 2022 (Beamsville Bench, $21.95, Vintages essential CSPC #573147)
Bright, straw colour; toasty, apple, vanilla with oak spice; medium-bodied, dry, apple and pear flavours, with well-integrated oak. (90)
Malivoire Stouck Merlot 2021 (Lincoln Lakeshore, $45, available winery only)
Deep ruby in colour; cedary, vanilla, plum and spicy oak; medium-bodied, dry, beautifully balanced; focused flavours of plum and blackcurrant. (90)
