A Wine Lover’s Diary, part 747: Martin’s Lane and Other Wines

Martin’s Lane is Anthony Von Mandl’s homage to his late father, a spectacular winery that specializes in Riesling and Pinot Noir. Winemaker Shane Munn produces some of Canada’s finest wines here.

Martin’s Lane Simes Vineyard Riesling 2016 (East Kelowna)
Bright straw in colour; minerally, spicy, grapefruit and apple bouquet with a light floral note; medium-bodied, just off-dry with lime and grapefruit flavours; beautifully balanced and with a lovely mouth-feel .(91)

Martin’s Lane Naramata Ranch Vineyard Riesling 2016 (Naramata Ranch)
Bright, pale straw colour; minerally, stony, citrus nose; medium-bodied, just off-dry, elegant, tangerine and lemon flavours with a thread of minerality. Great length. (92)

Martin’s Lane Fritzi’s Vineyard Riesling 2016 (West Kelowna)
Bright, pale straw colour; minerally, floral, honeyed grapefruit bouquet, already developing petrol notes; medium-bodied, rich mouth-feel, spicy, grapefruit and lemon flavours. Great length. (93)

Martin’s Lane Simes Vineyard Pinot Noir 2014 (East Kelowna)
Deep ruby-purple colour with a violet rim; cherry and plum bouquet backed by oak spice; medium-bodied, dry, elegant, richly extracted cherry and plum flavours. Firmly structured and opulent on the palate. (92)

Martin’s Lane Simes Vineyard Riesling 2015 (East Kelowna)
Deep ruby-purple with a violet rim; on the nose, vanilla, black cherry and a light floral note; medium-bodied, dry, concentrated, plum and cherry flavours with well-integrated oak and a lovely mouth-feel. (93)

Martin’s Lane Duhart Vineyard Pinot Noir 2015 (East Kelowna)
Deep ruby-purple-colour, lightly cedary, earthy nose of red stone fruit; medium-bodied, dry, plum flavour with ripe tannins and aan engaging, floral note on the end taste. (92)

Martin’s Lane Fritzi’s Vineyard Pinot Noir 2015 (West Kelowna)
Deep purple-ruby colour; cedary, plum and raisin nose; medium-bodied, dry, somewhat tight, plum and cinnamon flavours; well-structured. Needs 2–3 years. (90–92)

Martin’s Lane Naramata Ranch Vineyard 2015 (Naramata Ranch)
Deep ruby-purple in colour; cedary, vanilla and black cherry nose with a licorice note; medium-bodied, dry, spicy, black cherry flavour carried on lively acidity, firmly structured and somewhat closed. Hold 2–3 years. (91–93)

Also had the opportunity this week to taste a series of six wines from Malivoire in Niagara.

Malivoire Bisous Brut (Beamsville Bench)
A blend of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir rendered sparkling by the traditional method of fermentation in bottle and left on the lees for forty months before disgorging. Light golden colour with active, tiny bubbles, a nose of apples, lemon zest and crusty bread; medium-bodied, crisp on the palate, a green apple flavour with a long, lemony finish enhanced by a light floral note. (“Bisous” is French for “kisses.”) Drink now or over the next two years. (90)

Malivoire Pinot Gris 2018
Pale straw in colour; minerally, peach pit nose; medium-bodied, dry, white peach and citrus flavours sustained with a stony note. A versatile food wine for chicken or fish. Drink now or through 2020. (89)

Malivoire Mottiar Chardonnay 2016
The grapes for this wine come from Malivoire’s winemaker Shiraz Mottiar’s own vineyard. Pale straw in colour; minerally, citrus nose with a forest floor note and a suggestion of well-integrated, spicy oak; medium-bodied, dry, apple and lemon flavours; lovely mouth-feel with a generous tangerine finish. Drink now or over the next couple of years. (89)

Malivoire Small Lot Gamay 2018
Light ruby in colour; lively bouquet of cherries with a hint of oak spice; light-bodied, dry, juicy, red cherry and cranberry flavours with a hint of white pepper carried on zesty acidity. Drink now and chill lightly. (89)

Malivoire Small Lot Pinot Noir 2018
Light ruby colour; red plum, tobacco leaf nose with a note of ripe rhubarb and oak; light to medium-body, dry with lifted flavours of cherry and red plum and an engaging floral finish. A touch of tannin on the finish gives structure to the tine. Drink in 2020, through 2021. (88.5)

Malivoire Cabernet Franc 2017
Sourced from the Wismer Vineyard. Deep ruby in colour; cedary, toasty, redcurrant bouquet with vanilla oak notes; medium-bodied, dry, fresh and lively redcurrant and sour cherry flavours carried on lively acidity. Well-structured and great tension between ripe fruit and acidity, a touch of nutmeg on the finish. Drink now or hold 2–3 years. (89)

Other wines tasted:

Kaiken Terroir Series Torrontés 2018  (Cafayate Valley, Salta, Argentina)
Bright, pale straw in colour; spicy, perfumed, orange blossom and cardamom nose; medium-bodied, dry, white peach, musk melon and tangerine flavours with an engaging orange blossom flourish and refreshing acidity. Clean and pure with great length. (89) BB ($17.95, Vintages #330407)

Kaiken Ultra Cabernet Sauvignon 2017  (Vistalba Vineyard, Mendoza, Argentina)
Deep ruby purple in colour; cedary, tobacco, plum and blackcurrant bouquet with oak spice; medium-bodied, dry, elegant, ripe black stone fruit flavours with a floral grace note and well-integrated oak, ending on mellow tannins. (90) BB ($19.95, Vintages #135202)

Louis M. Martini Cabernet Sauvignon 2016 (Sonoma County)
Deep purple in colour; vanilla and plum nose with oak spice; full-bodied, dry, unctuous, creamy, sweet blackcurrant and plum, flavours with a warm alcoholic finish. (89)

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