Tony Aspler, the Wine Guy

Monday, January 20: Bad night’s sleep. I was sitting awkwardly in the theatre because of the space between the rows and must have strained some leg muscles, as I was in pain all night. Not much better this morning. Took a bath with Epsom Salts and knocked a fresh roll of toilet paper into the water. One of those days.

Wrote my 680News wine reviews and did more inputting of reviews to my website. This evening is the annual Wine Writer’s Circle dinner at Le Paradis. My contribution was Eszterbauer Tüke Szekszárdi Bikavér 2007 (which turned out to be suffering from a corkily-transmitted disease, i.e. TCA) and Neyen Espiritu de Apalta 2006 from Chile’s Colchagua Valley, which was terrific. The menu was perfect for then night. I had fricassé d’escargots, brined veal bone marrow, betteraves au chèvre frais, entrecôte du boeuf with béarnaise, followed by trio of sorbets. The wines I sampled: Soalheiro Alvarinho 2011, Art 2009 (Mencia from Bierzo), Comte Armand Pommard 2007, Zebras Brunello 2004, Comte Armand Pommard 2007, Château Pichon Longueville Lalande 1998, Rostaing Côte Rôtie La Landonne 1998, Kangaroo Springs Shiraz 2005, Urla Tempus 2010 (from Turkey – Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Syrah, Petit Verdot and Cabernet Franc; a stunning wine), Graham 30 Year Old Tawny Port and Kopke Colheita 1974. Carolyn Evans-Hammond brought the weirdest wine of all: Yatta White Wine in a tetrapak – from Kenya.

Tuesday, January 21: Minus 33 with the wind chill factor. Pinot had me up at 6 am to go out for a walk. She soon wanted to come back. Did some tasting in the afternoon.

• La Haute Févrie Le Fils des Gras Moutons Muscadet Sèvre-et-Maine 2012 ($14.95): Very pale colour; minerally, acacia blossom; medium-bodied, crisply dry, lemony flavour; well-made and well-priced. (88)
• Gustav Adolf Schmitt Niersteiner Spätlese Rheinhessen 2012 ($10.95): very pale straw; minerally, honey, citrus rind on the nose; off-dry, grapefruit and lychee flavours. A little short with a blunt, hard finish. (85)
• Huff Estates Riesling Off-Dry 2012 ($17.95): pale straw colour; minerally, grapefruit and honey on the nose; off-dry, lime and grapefruit with lively acidity. Nice balance of citrus acidity and sweetness. (87)
• Flat Rock Twisted 2012 ($17.15): a blend of Riesling, Gewurztraminer and Chardonnay: almost water white; aromatic nose, grapefruit, apple with a floral note; off-dry, light-bodied, fruity, pink grapefruit flavour; touch of bitterness on the finish (over-pressing?). (87)
• Bodegas Valsacro Dioro Rioja 2005 ($32.95): deep ruby; spicy, black cherry with evident oak; dry, full-bodied, richly expressive fruit (cherry, plum flavours with chocolate notes) carried on lively acidity. Lovely mouth feel. (40% Grenache, 40% Syrah, 20% Carignan) (90)
• Kacaba Syrah Terrace Vineyard 2011 ($24.95): ruby with a purple note; peppery-herbal, black fruit nose; medium-bodied, dry, savoury with fresh acidity; soft tannins. (88)
• Les Vignerons de Castelas Signargues Côtes du Rhône Villages 2014 ($16.95): ruby-purple colour; herby, blackberry nose with vanilla oak; dry, savoury, toasted herbs, blackberry flavour with a firm tannic finish. (87).

Wednesday, January 22: Another brutally cold day, minus 34 with the wind chill factor. Had a conference call with the Wine Council of Ontario to discuss the consolidation point for entries to the Ontario Wine Awards by Niagara wineries. And then arranged for consolidation points in Prince Edward County and Lake Erie North Shore. This year is the 20th anniversary of the awards.

My web master James Harbeck sent me an article he wrote for The Week magazine, entitled “17 disgusting descriptions for delicious wines” – well worth reading at http://theweek.com/article/index/255320/17-disgusting-descriptions-for-delicious-wines. Wrote my wine reviews for Quench magazine (formerly Tidings).

Thursday, January 23: Yet another freezing day. Glad I’ll soon be out of it. This evening I fly to Montpellier for the Millèsime Bio fair and conference on biodynamic and sustainable winegrowing. I fly overnight to Paris at 8:20 pm and then to Montpellier. Spent the rest of the day clearing my desk and packing (I’m advised to bring an umbrella).

Monday, January 13: A tasting of Ontario wines at Doug Towers’s house with David Lawrason for www.winerytohome. For dinner, spaghetti bolognese with Allegrini Palazzo della Torre 2010 (sour cherry and blackcurrant nose; dry, raising plum flavour with a lilac top note; firm structure – 89).

Tuesday, January 14: Lunch with Samuel Guibert, winemaker and owner of Mas de Daumas Gassac in the Languedoc and his importing Tom Noitsis of Eurovintage at San Tropez restaurant on King Street West. Arrived late because of a signal problem on the TTC. Moulin de Gassac, the winery’s second label, offers great value Chardonnay and Merlot. The Mas de Daumas red and white are field blends of great complexity and finesse.

Samuel Guibert

In the evening, down to Nota Bene to meet the new winemaker of Osoyoos Larose, Mathieu Mercier. The 25-year-old Mathieu, who takes over from Pascal Madevon (now at Don Triggs’s Culmina winery in the southern Okanagan), was born in the Cognac region. His father sold wine to Hennessy. He has an impressive resumé having made wine at Concha Y Toro’s Don Melchor in Chile; at Swanson Vineyards and at Cain Vineyard and Winery in the Napa Valley; and in Bordeaux, working at several estates owned by Groupe Taillan. Le Groupe Taillan now owns 100% of Osoyoos Larose, having purchased Constellation’s 50% share.

Mathieu Mercier

The wines we tasted – 2008 and 2009 Osoyoos Larose and 2009 Osoyoos Larose Petales – were all made by Madevon, so I’m looking forward to Mathieu’s first vintage (2013) to see if there is a change in style. I loved Pascal Madevon’s 2009 wines.

Wednesday, January 15: Lunched at Cibo with Chris Hancock to taste the wines of Robert Oatley. Very impressed with the Robert Oatley Signature Series Riesling 2012 (pale straw colour with a hint of lime; a nose of petrol, honey and grapefruit; medium-bodied, crisply dry lime flavour with bracing acidity (89)). Also enjoyed Chris Hancock’s Four In Hand Barossa Shiraz 2012 – not your usual beefed up Barossa Shiraz but more elegant with savoury blackberry and bitter chocolate flavours and lively acidity (90).

Chris Hancock’s Barossa Shiraz

In the evening, got down to some tasting at home:

• Baron Philippe de Rothschild Mouton Cadet Réserve 2011 (Graves – $15.25): bright, light straw colour; grassy, grapefruit, white peach and green herbs on the nose; medium-bodied, dry, green apple and passion fruit flavours with a touch of baked apple on the finish. Lively acidity but blunt and hard on the finish. (86)
• Simi Sonoma County Chardonnay 2012 ($19.95): light straw colour with a green tint; minerally, struck flint and green pineapple nose, developing barnyard notes; medium-bodied, sweet pineapple and melon flavours, creamy mid-palate with just enough clovey oak spice to give it a lift. Good mouth feel. (89)
• Clos du Bois Cabernet Sauvignon 2011 (California North Coast – $15.95): deep ruby colour; cedary, cherry and redcurrant nose with a touch of oak: medium-bodied, dry, fruity and sweetish with a creamy mid palate and a dry, tannic finish. (87).
• Clos du Bois Cabernet Sauvignon Sonoma Reserve 2011 (Alexander Valley – $24.95): deep ruby colour; cedary, pencil lead, red berry nose; medium-bodied, dry, firmly structured with cherry and currant flavours backed by vanilla oak; well extracted fruit with cocoa powder tannins. (89)
• Clos du Bois Marlstone 2010 (Alexander Valley – 74% Cabernet Sauvignon, 15% Merlot, 7% Malbec, 4% Petit Verdot; $49.95): dense ruby-purple colour; cedar, blackcurrant, plum, vanilla oak with a floral top note (rose petals); richly extracted, full in the mouth with generous black fruit flavours melded with spicy oak. Lovely mouth feel with ripe tannins and great balance. (91+)
• Ravenswood Vintners Blend Petit Sirah 2011 (California – $17.95): deep ruby colour; spicy plum with evident oak on the nose; medium to full-bodied, dry and fruity blackcurrant and blackberry flavours with a touch of sweetness. Firm finish. (88)
• Ravenswood Old Vine Zinfandel 2010 (Sonoma County – $21.95): deep ruby colour; spicy plum, black cherry and leather nose with a smoky note; medium-bodied, sweet plummy fruit with a creamy vanilla note. Nicely balanced with fresh acidity and a firm, lingering finish. (88+)

For dinner, Rock Cornish Hen with Simi Russian River Chardonnay Reserve 2009.

Thursday, January 16: Wrote up wine reviews most of the day. For dinner, salmon steaks with Domaine Jean Hauller Riesling Grand Cru Muenchberg 2011 (straw colour; minerally, citrus and honey nose with a floral note; dry, full-bodied, spicy, peach, tangerine, grapefruit and honey flavour – 89).

Friday, January 17: A tasting at the LCBO of French and Australian wines as well as some new releases. Zoltan Szabo and his wife Joanna came over for dinner. Started with Daniel Lenko Reserve Riesling 2009 with mushroom risotto and Huff Estates South Bay Vineyards Unoaked Chardonnay 2012. With the barbecued filet, braised fennel and chestnuts, fingerling potatoes, Gallo Family Cabernet Sauvignon Barrelli Creek Vineyard 2006. With the cheeses, Hidden Bench Terroir Caché Meritage 2008.

Monday, January 6: Wrote my 680News wine reviews, then down to Ciceri e Tria – La Bettola to lunch with Phil Anisman to discuss a new venture, The Executive Wine Experience – training corporate staff in wine appreciation so that they feel comfortable entertaining clients. Had an interesting white pizza with pear and nuts.

In the evening, conducted my annual blind tasting competition for the importers at the LCBO’s Scrivener Square store. This was the list of wines ten intrepid souls tasted blind and had to guess the grape variety or varieties, the region, the vintage and – if possible – the producer.

1. Freixenet Cordon Negro Cava Seleccion (Spain)
2. Inniskillin Unoaked Chardonnay 2010 (Ontario)
3. Cono Sur Bicicleta Viognier 2012 (Chile)
4. Inniskillin Pinot Noir Rosé 2011 (Ontario)
5. Plunkell-Fowles Stone Dwellers Cabernet Sauvignon 2009 (Strathbogie Ranges, Australia)
6. Kilikanoon Killerman’s Run Shiraz 2011 (South Australia)

The ultimate winner was David Beauroy of Oenophilia Connexion.

Blind tasting wines

Tuesday, January 7: Deborah and I went for a meeting with our financial advisor to discuss our portfolio. Worked on updating the Canadian section of Oz Clarke’s Pocket Wine Book. Booked a flat in Verona for a family vacation in September – one week in Tuscany and one in Veneto. For dinner, chicken pot pie with Jackson-Triggs White Meritage 2012 (grassy, celery nose with a flavour of passion fruit augmented by oak that fills out the middle palate; nicely balanced (89)).

Wednesday, January 8: Recorded my 680News wine reviews and then to lunch at Patachou with Liz Gallery, Cathy Martin, Ted Kalaboukis and Lisa Ulrich to discuss Grapes for Humanity’s event on May 15th – Chile Uncorked (at the Gardiner Museum, 6–9 pm).

Dinner: Deborah’s rich vegetable and barely soup and cheeses, with Rosewood Estates Origin Series La Fumée 2012 (grassy, lemony, passion fruit and gooseberry on the nose; medium-bodied, fresh and lively on the palate; elegant with good length (90)).

Thursday, January 9: Emma Garner, the winemaker from Thirty Bench, came to the condo to show me her new wines.

• Thirty Bench Woodpost Riesling 2012 ($30): very pale lemon-lime colour; petrol, lime, mineral note; crisply dry, light-bodied with a minerally, citrus flavour, tart finish with a crab apple finish. (88+)
• Thirty Bench Steelpost Riesling 2012 ($30): very pale lime; more minerally, lime with a light floral note; very Mosel in character, light-bodied, crisply dry with a lime flavour and good length. Exciting acidity. (91)
• Thirty Bench Triangle Riesling 2012 ($30): very pale lime colour; broader on the nose, minerally, floral, lemon zest nose; expansive on the palate with lemon-lime flavours and a strong thread of minerality. (89)
• Thirty Bench Winemaker’s Riesling 2012 ($18 LCBO): very pale lime colour; minerally, apple and citrus nose with a light floral note; lemony, green apple flavour, doesn’t have the length of the single-vineyard wines but well made with a lively acidic finish. (88)
• Thirty Bench Small Lot Pinot Gris 2012 ($30): light straw colour; minerally, peach nose; dry, white peach and citrus flavours with a touch of oak, nicely balanced and firm with a peach pit finish. (88)
• Thirty Bench Small Lot Gewurztraminer 2012 ($30): straw colour; spicy, peppery, light lilac note on the nose; more Gewurz character on the palate than on the nose – dry, spicy, cardamom flavour; good length. (88+)
• Thirty Bench Small Lot Pinot Noir 2011 ($30): light ruby colour; earthy, raspberry and beetroot nose with a touch of oak and a minty note; dry, medium-bodied, Volnay style, firmly structured with a fine acidic spine and good tannic structure. (89)
• Thirty Bench Small Lot Merlot 2011 ($45): deep ruby colour; spicy, cedary, black cherry with a floral note; medium-bodied, rich and well extracted black cherry and plum flavours, good grip with a fine thread of acidity. Needs a year or two in bottle. (91)
• Thirty Bench Cabernet Franc 2012 ($45): deep ruby colour; vanilla oak, floral, black fruit nose; medium-bodied, tight but showing good fruit extract : blackcurrant flavour. Nicely balanced, firm finish. (91)

Friday, January 10: A Vintages release tasting for February 10th. The best wine was Mountadam Vineyards High Eden Chardonnay 2009 from the Barossa Valley.

In the evening I took Deborah to dinner at The Chase to celebrate her birthday. Our menu:

An amazing meal.

Deborah’s birthday wine

Sunday, December 29: A very sociable evening. First Zoltan Szabo dropped in for a drink and we opened a bottle of Huff Estates Cuvée Janine Sparkling Rosé 2010. Then Deborah’s sister Suzanne came over early for dinner. Next Patrick Imbert and Alexandra came around for drinks (Patrick was the French Trade commissioner in Toronto before being posted to Dusseldorf). Next we opened a bottle of Veuve Clicquot Rosé. Then Guy and his girlfriend Carlee arrived for dinner. With German and Italian salami, pistachio nuts, cashews, we did justice to a bottle of Megalomaniac Riesling 2011. For dinner, tourtière (that Deborah made) with Rochioli Pinot Noir 2007, followed by cheeses with Blackwood Lane Referènce 2006.

Monday, December 30: Not a lot happened today. Reading Justice at Nuremberg, a big fat book by Robert E. Conot which was in my late father’s library (with all his hand-written notes – he was there at the trial). For dinner, beef stir fry with Rosewood Estates Merlot Reserve 2010.

Tuesday, December 31: Deborah and I had planned to have a quiet evening, just the two of us at home to see the New Year in. But Guy called to invite us over to dinner, with Pinot the Wonderdog. Carlee was making boeuf bourguignon. I brought over a bottle of Chanson Le Clos du Roi 2010, which Deborah and I had planned to have with filet mignon at home. Guy had already opened a bottle of Tedeschi Amarone 2009, which we drank with cheeses as we waited for the meal to be ready. We pretty well finished off the two bottles so Guy opened Little Yering Pinot Noir 2011. We left Guy’s condo at 10:30 pm and when we got home there was an email from a neighbour inviting us to join her at Sip Wine Bar & Pizzeria around the corner from us. They had just received their liquor license and were opening on New Year’s Eve. So we walked over and saw the New Year in there over a glass of mediocre Chianti.

Wednesday, January 1: Pinot the Wonderdog’s birthday. She is nine years old today – which makes her (in dog years) older than Deborah. The weather has turned really cold but she enjoyed her long walk in the park. For dinner, lamb chops with a bottle of Blue Mountain Pinot Noir 2011.

Thursday, January 2: The coldest day of the winter so far with a wind chill factor of minus 31. Had a meeting with David Hamilton, publisher of Toronto Life, to discuss the Ontario Wine Awards and Sip & Savour Ontario.

Friday, January 3: Still in holiday mode with not much happening on the work front. Ordered in Chinese food from C’est Bon and opened a bottle of Blue Mountain Gamay 2011. Delicious with General Tso chicken.

Saturday, January 4: Spent most of the day preparing a dinner party for my wine writer buddy Irv Wolkoff and his wife, Carole. We started with goat cheese wrapped in smoke salmon, served with 13th Street Première Cuvée 2008. When we sat down, the first course was fried goat cheese salad with grapes, with Peninsula Ridge Fumé Blanc 2008 and Exultet The Blessed Chardonnay 2011. Main course: filet mignon with a herb rub, brussel sprouts with sautéed onions and pecans and fingerling potatoes, with Bouchard Père et Fils Beaune Grève Vigne de L’Enfant Jésus 2001 (a triumph). Cheeses with Hidden Bench Terroir Caché 2007. Dessert: roasted red grapes with mascarpone and rum.

Wine of the night

Monday, December 23: Recorded my 680News wine reviews and then had a meeting with David Hamilton, publisher of Toronto Life, to discuss the Ontario Wine Awards and Sip&Savour Ontario. Wrote my commentary for Quench (the new name for Tidings magazine) on how wine was “invented.”

Tuesday, December 24: A lazy day because of the ice storm. Walked Pinot in the park, which looks magical with the sun sparkling off the ice-covered branches. Lots of downed trees, unfortunately. We have power in our building but across the street they are all dark. In the evening Deborah and I and Guy and Carlee took the subway over to the Willises’ in Rosedale for their annual Christmas carol event. Drank Pol Roger Champagne Brut and Antinori Peppoli Chianti Classico 2009.

Wednesday, December 25: Drove up to Caledon with Deborah and her sister Suzanne to have Christmas dinner with Nadine, Deborah’s niece, and her husband Garry and their two boys. They had lost power in their main house but a small house by Highway 9 where Nadine’s father Spiro was staying with his partner Annie had electricity. So we all crammed in there to prepare the turkey and trimmings. I opened a bottle of Joie Pinot Blanc 2012 and an Inniskillin Pinot Noir 2008. I gave Deborah a clutch purse that looks like a fashion magazine cover.

Thursday, December 26: We took advantage of the Boxing Day sale to buy a new 42-inch flat-screen TV. Our old one, which we’ve had for five years, has suddenly developed problems and you have to hit it to correct the picture. Had a terrible time trying to park outside Best Buy, which was mobbed. Paid $200 to have the Geek Squad come in to mount it on the wall and set it up. This will happen in January, so until then we have to keep hitting the TV. Made chicken curry with the garam masala Vikram Vij gave me back in July. Served it with Bollig-Lehnert Trittenheimer Apotheke Riesling Spätlese 2011. A perfect match.

Friday, December 27: Another lazy day. Heard that a house across the street burned down and only the walls are left standing. The owners had probably left because there was no power and must have not turned off a heater. What a terrible thing to come back to over Christmas.