Thursday, July 18th: I attended The School of Cool, 14C’s signature event, held at White Oaks Conference Resort in Niagara-on-the-Lake. It’s one of my favorite events in the wine calendar. This year we were told by Suzanne Janke, I4C Board of Director, in her welcome address that 97 wineries from four continents were represented – featuring 133 wines. Over the course of the day there would be the lead-off keynote speaker (Master Sommelier Stephan Neumann), three educational seminars and a walk-around tasting at the end of the session.
Neumann was eloquent and witty, speaking from his experience as a working sommelier at Michelin-starred restaurants like The Fat Duck, Dinner by Heston Blumenthal and Le Manoir aux quat’ Saisons in Oxford. His theme was tying together the experiences of the Viticulturist/Producer, the Importer/Distributor with Consumer/Client.
The opening tasting session, conducted blind and led by Anthony Hamilton Russell, the producer from South Africa, featuring eight Chardonnays, was titled “The Only Constant is Change.” We were told we were working north to south and we had to identify which were not Canadian Chardonnays. The wines, when unmasked, were:
- Blomidon Estate Chardonnay 2021 (Nova Scotia)
- Lighthall Vineyards Chardonnay 2020 (Prince Edward County)
- Adamo Estate Chardonnay Musqué 2022 (Hockley Valley, Ontario)
- Westcott Vineyards Chardonnay 2021 (Jordan, Ontario)
- Organized Crime Chardonnay 2020 (Beamsville Bench, Niagara)
- Kellerei Bozen Chardonnay 2022 (Alto-Adige)
- Planeta Chardonnay 2022 (Sicily)
- Hamilton Russell Chardonnay 2023 (Hemel-en-Aarde Valley, South Africa)
Session 2: “Bubbles on the Rise,” led by the irrepressible Peter Rod, who asked us pick out blind which of the Ontario sparkling wines were not Blanc de Blancs but had some Pinot Noir added. (Some Ontario wineries label their 100% Chardonnay sparklers Blanc de Blanc without the final s.)
- The Foreign Affair Blanc de Blanc 2021
- Malivoire Bisous Blanc de Blanc Brut Nature N/V
- Kew Vineyard Blanc de Blancs 2017
- Leaning Post Blanc de Blanc 2018
- Blue Mountain Brut Reserve R.D. 2014 (Okanagan, BC)
- Henry of Pelham Carte Blanche 2017
- Boschendahl Jean de Long Cap Classique Blanc de Blancs
Peter Rod’s Bubbles panel of winemakers
After a coffee break, we attended the final educational session: Chardonnay Unbound – Chardonnay given unusual treatment in Ontario. The wines, again served blind:
- Domaine La Roche Chablis Les Vaudevey 2022
- Domaine Deux Roches Pouilly-Fuissé Vieilles Vignes 2022
- Bachelder Frontier Block Chardonnay 2021
- Thirty Bench Small Lot Extended Barrel Age Chardonnay 2021
- Stratus Chardonnay Amphora 2021
- Maenad Wine Co. Niagara College Skin Fermented Chardonnay 2021
- Dobbin Estate Chardonnay 2020
- 16 Mile Cellar Civility Chardonnay 2018
After this tasting there was a walk-around tasting where winemakers, wine press and the general public could mingle while they tasted. All in all, a terrific wine-filled day. For my part, the best School of Cool yet!
Quote of the day (from Mattias Messner, Managing Director, Kellerei Bozen in the Alto-Adige): “The best wine is an empty bottle.”
Other wines tasted this week:
Township 7 is one of the few wineries in British Columbia that produces wines in both the Okanagan and Fraser Valleys.
Township 7 Seven Stars Aurora Blanc de Blanc Noir Brut 2020
100% Pinot Noir. Pale straw in colour with a persistent stream of tiny bubbles; minerally, biscuity nose of red apples; medium-bodied, dry, elegant and beautifully balanced green apple and lemon flavours with great length. (92)
Township 7 Provenance Series Rosé 2023
“Predominately sourced from classic Bordeaux varieties.” Pink with an orange hue; redcurrant and oak spice bouquet; medium-bodied, dry, well-structured, strawberry and redcurrant flavours with a note of orange peel. Long finish, (89)
Township 7 Provenance Series Pinot Gris 2023
Very pale in colour, almost water white; peach pit nose with a mineral thread; medium-bodied, dry, white peach flavour with a suggestion of oak; lovely mouth feel, rich mid palate and great length. (91)
Township 7 Provenance Series Sauvignon Blanc 2023
Pale straw in colour; minerally, sweet grass and gooseberry nose; medium-bodied, crisply dry with flavours of green apple, lemon and passionfruit. (90)
Hester Creek Estate Winery is located in Oliver at the southern end of the Okanagan Valley.
Hester Creek Pinot Bianco 2023 (Golden Mile Bench)
Pale straw colour; peach pit nose with oak spice; medium- to full-bodied, dry, rich peach flavour; well-structured, with an intriguing bitterness on the finish. (89)
Hester Creek Old Vine Merlot 2021 (Golden Mile Bench)
Deep ruby in colour; cedary, plum nose with oak spice; full-bodied, richly extracted plum flavour ending on a savoury, charred note. Well-balanced, well-integrated oak with ripe tannins. (91)
Hester Creek GSM 2022 (Okanagan Valley)
45% Grenache, 38% Syrah (co-fermented with 2% Viognier), 17% Mourvèdre. Deep ruby in colour; spicy, floral blackberry nose with notes of black pepper; full-bodied, dry, richly extracted black fruit flavours carried on lively acidity. A beautifully balanced wine. (92)
Hester Creek The Judge 2021 (Okanagan Valley)
46% Merlot, 26% Cabernet Franc, 22% Cabernet Sauvignon, 5% Petit Verdot, 1% Malbec. Deep ruby in colour; cedary, spicy, blackcurrant bouquet with vanilla oak notes; full-bodied, St. Emilion style; blackcurrant and black cherry flavours; well-structured and rich on the palate with succulent sweet fruit and a savoury-herbal finish. (93)
Flat Rock Cellars Twisted Special Anniversary Edition 2023 ($19.95, to be released at the LCBO on September 7th)
This is the 20th edition of Flat Rock Cellars’ Twisted brand. The blend this vintage is 74% Riesling, 15.4% Gewurztraminer, 9.86% Chardonnay. Pale straw in colour; spicy, floral, lychee bouquet; medium-bodied, dry, lychee and peach flavours; well-balanced and long on the palate. (90)