A Wine Lover’s Diary, Part 576: New Car

Monday, December 14th: Spent much of the day working on the novel, enjoying the research (so easy on the Internet). Then started contacting Bordeaux wineries for my annual wine tour visits in May (www.pauwelstravel.com/tours/itinerary/Bordeaux-Tour-2016.pdf).

Tuesday, December 15th: My life would be so much less complicated if I could just sit back and write fiction – rather than have to write for a living. Dinner with Deborah at our friends Adrienne and Myra’s. We took Uber to their house but we gave the address as Palmerston Avenue instead of Palmerston Gardens. So we had to order another cab to take us to the right address and ended up half an hour late. I hate being lost and late. But our host we very gracious and the food and wine were delicious.

Wednesday, December 16th: My computer guru Pete came over to service my computer, cleaning out old temp files and making sure my external hard drive backed up my old files. These computer geeks are the Merlins of contemporary society. Instead of English Literature and Philosophy I should have studied computer science – only computers were rooms full of punch-card-spewing machines when I was in university. (I was in the same fraternity as Leonard Cohen. I can hear you say, “Leonard Cohen was in a fraternity!”)

Thursday, December 17th: Today is the day Deborah and I pick up our new car – a blue Acura ILX. We’re trading in the Acura RDX. Deborah is not exactly thrilled to be driving a smaller car but since Pinot the Wonderdog hates travelling in a car there’s really no need for us to have an SUV. I’m a great fan of Acura – this is the seventh Acura I’ve had in a row. The ILX has a lot of neat features: lane keeping assist system, adaptive cruise control, blind spot information system, rear cross traffic monitor… Jeez, I’ve been drinking the Kool-Aid. Let Deborah drive it home so that she would fall in love with it (and be Driver # 1 on the settings).

Friday, December 18th: After a day of writing fiction I rewarded myself by tasting Niagara College Teaching Winery Prodigy Icewine 2014: pale straw in colour with a rich bouquet of mango, pineapple and honey; full-bodied, with honeyed tropical fruity flavours kept from cloying by a lively spine of acidity. Beautifully balanced with a crisp, long finish (92).

Saturday, December 19th: My old friend and collaborator on the Ontario Wine Awards David Rose and his partner Elaine came over to visit. They’ve moved up to Muskoka to open a B&B they call Muskoka Rose. I made hummus, grilled shrimp and cheeses and we opened a bottle of Veuve Ambal Crémant de Bourgogne Grand Cuvée Brut (straw colour; toasty, apple and citrus bouquet; medium bodied, dry, with lively lemon-lime acidity and flavours of apple and warm brioche. Great value at $17.95 (89)).

 

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A Wine Lover’s Diary, Part 574: Chilean Tasting


Chilean wine line-up

Monday, November 30th: Wrote my Post City column on Port and also my 680 NEWS wine reviews. In the evening down to The Chase for a dinner with four friends. Ordered oysters and veal chop. We brought our own wines:

  • Philippe Colin Chassagne-Montrachet Les Chaumées 2011
  • Domaine Leflaive Batard Montrachet 2004
  • Guigal Côtes Rôtie La Mouline 1997
  • Dr. Crusius Traiser Riesling Eiswein 2009 from the Nahe

Philippe Colin Chassagne-Montrachet Les Chaumées 2011

Dr. Crusius Traiser Riesling Eiswein 2009

A thoroughly enjoyable evening.

Tuesday, December 1st: Took the car in for winter tires and then to an appointment with my dermatologist (all well). Tasted a few wines to celebrate:

  • Tenuta Poggioverrano Dromos Maremma Toscana 2005 ($39.95): deep ruby colour; a nose of Bing cherries with a meaty note lifted with subtle oak tinge; rich and full on the palate and beautifully balanced with black cherry, blackcurrant and tobacco flavours and underlying minerality. Still youthful and fresh. (93)
  • Beringer Founder’s Estate Sauvignon Blanc 2013 (Napa -$16.95): richly extracted, round and fleshy on the palate with a peach flavour and lively acidity. (87)
  • Beringer Founder’s Estate Cabernet Sauvignon 2013 (Napa – $17.95): deep ruby colour; cedar and blackcurrant nose; sweet fruit that finishes dry. Easy drinking. (87+)
  • Quails’ Gate Merlot 2011 (Okanagan): deep ruby-purple colour; cedary, tobacco and blueberry bouquet; medium-bodied, dry and savoury with a fine spine of acidity. (89)

Wednesday, December 2nd: Spent much of the day on Grapes for Humanity business – getting the wines together for a Chef Massimo Capra dinner we auctioned off at our “Italy Uncorked” event last May. And paying bills. Tasted one wine, which we finished with a beef stir-fry for dinner: Mitolo Jester Shiraz 2013 (McLaren Vale – $22.95): dense purple colour with a herbal, blackberry, black tea and leather nose; full-bodied, rich bitter chocolate and black fruit flavours. (89)

Thursday, December 3rd: Recorded my 680 NEWS wine reviews and then drove down to the Chef’s House at George Brown for a lunch meeting. The manager told me my lunch partner had called in to say she was sick. So I picked up a chicken curry at Amaya Express on King Street and ate it at home. Worked on the novel.

Friday, December 4th: A Vintages release tasting this morning, then stopped into New York Fries on the way home. Ordered a small fries, which I ate from the bag as I walked home (even though my mother taught me not to eat in the street).

At 5:30 pm down to Hola Tapas Bar on Queen Street East to conduct a tasting of Chilean wines for 24 people, matched with Chilean dishes. The wines:

  • Errazuriz Estate Sauvignon Blanc 2014
  • Santa Alicia Gran Reserve de Los Chardonnay 2013
  • Santa Digna Cabernet Sauvignon Reserva 2013
  • San Pedro 1865 Single Vineyard Carmenère 2013
  • Falerna Reserva Syrah 2010

 

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A Wine Lover’s Diary, Part 573: Montefalco Sagrantino


Francesca and Paolo Bartolini

Monday, November 23rd: Went to the funeral for John Hanna, whom everyone knew as Jack. A very moving eulogy from his son Ian, who played the guitar and sang. The church was crowded, the wine trade turned out in droves – which is only as it should be to celebrate the life of a fine gentleman.

In the afternoon to Cibo on Yonge Street for a tasting of Sagrantino from Umbria. Two wineries on show – Cantina Le Climate (owned by brother and sister Paolo and Francesca Bartolini, who were there to pour) and a single wine from Tenute Bellafonte (to which we helped ourselves).

  • Cantina Le Climate Aragon 2013 (Vermentino and Grechetto): medium-bodied, crisply dry, minerally, white peach flavour. (87)
  • Cantina Le Climate Saudade Rosato 2014 (Sagrantino): deep salmon colour; sour cherry nose; crisply dry with cherry and rhubarb flavours; good length. (88)
  • Cantina Le Climate Montefalco Rosso 2011 (Sangiovese, Cabernet, Merlot and Sagrantino): deep plum colour; vanilla oak, cedar, leather notes on the nose; medium-bodied, dry, firmly structured with a tannic finish. (87)
  • Cantina Le Climate Montefaclo Sagrantino 2010: deep ruby-purple colour; earthy, cedary, black cherry nose; dry, spicy flavours of tobacco and black cherry; full-bodied, with firm tannins which are a touch green. Needs time. (8889)
  • Tenute Bellafonte Sagrantino 2011: deep ruby colour; a nose of tobacco, cedar, penci lead; full-bodied, well-extracted sweet black fruit flavours with a lovely mouth-feel. Needs time for the tannins to mellow. (89–91)

Tenute Bellafonte Collenottolo Sagrantino 2011

For dinner, lamb chops and bottle of Château Hauchat Fronsac 2011: deep ruby colour; a nose of blackcurrant and cedar; medium-bodied, dry, lean, redcurrant and oak flavours (87).

Tuesday, November 24th: A Vintages tasting today to catch up on a Friday tasting I missed. In the afternoon I visited iYellow Wine Club’s wine cave at 243 Queen Street West to meet with Angela Aiello. We discussed how we could work together on the Ontario Wine Awards. For dinner, grilled salmon with Jean-Max Roger Sancerre Blanc Cuvée G.C. 2014: a truly delicious wine: golden straw in colour; grassy, peach and citrus nose; dry, medium-bodied, beautifully balanced and full in the mouth with a mineral thread and floral top note (91).

Wednesday, November 25th: A lunch meeting at The Chef’s House with Cathy Martin and Doris Miculan-Bradley to discuss Chef Massimo’s role as a food and wine ambassador for Grapes for Humanity, as well as projects for up-coming fund-raisers. For dinner, beef stir-fry with a bottle of Robert Oatley Signature Series McLaren Vale Shiraz 2013: dense purple-black colour with a floral, blackcurrant and blackberry nose; full-bodied, dry and savoury with flavours of blackberries, black olives and leather; ripe fruit with soft tannins. Well priced at $19.95 (90).

Thursday, November 26th: Spent much of the day contacting Bordeaux wineries to try to set up visits for my annual European wine tour. Trying to get some First Growth tastings. Apparently I need new lenses.

Friday, November 27th: A Vintages release. A big one for December. Stopped in for French Fries at New York Fries on Yonge Street on the way home – the perfect food after a big tasting of red wines.

Saturday, November 28th: Deborah and I went downtown to shop for her Christmas present. Much more satisfactory than worrying about what I should choose for her. Ended up at Tiffany’s. Not really what I had in mind.

Dinner this evening to celebrate my daughter-in-law Sasha’s 30th birthday with her twin sister Anastasia. Sasha’s parent, Zoya and Valentin and her husband Guy all met at Ascari on Queen West. I ordered Disznoko Dry Furmint 2014 and Domaine Mabileau-Rezé Quintessence St. Nicolas de Bourgeuil 2012 from their over-priced wine list. Deborah accidentally set her menu of fire with a tea-light in the centre of the table.

 

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A Wine Lover’s Diary, Part 572: CheckMate


White wine line-up at the Gourmet Wine & Food Expo (see Friday)

Monday, November 16th: Recorded my 680 NEWS reviews which I couldn’t do last week because of my cold. Tasted a couple of wines:

  • Quails’ Gate Chardonnay 2014 (Okanagan): straw colour; a nose of apples and warm straw; medium to full-bodied, dry, apple flavour with lively acidity and a lemony finish. (88)
  • Quails’ Gate Pinot Noir 2013: deep ruby colour; cherry and red meat nose with a light floral note; medium-bodied, dry and firmly structured. (89)

Tuesday, November 17th: Up early to catch a 10 am flight to New York for the Anthony von Mandl’s latest wine project – an Okanagan winery that specialises in Chardonnay, called CheckMate. The event was held at Vaucluse Restaurant at 63rd and Park. In his introduction, Anthony said, “The wine grape has become the canary in the mine shaft of agriculture.” He then gave the floor to wine climatologist Dr. Gregory Jones, who spoke about temperatures at which certain vinifera flourished. We then tasted through five Chardonnays from the new feather-light Gabriel Glas glasses (105 grams), four of the wines from single vineyards and one a blend of three vineyards, Each wine is named in the chess idiom.

  • CheckMate Capture Chardonnay 2013 (Border Vista Vineyard, Osoyoos East Bench – $90): straw coloured; lifted, floral nose of apple and almond; elegant, beautifully balanced, elegant and seamless with lemony acidity and a tangerine flavour. Great length. (91)
  • CheckMate Attack Chardonnay 2013 (The Barn Vineyard, Black Sage Bench – $115): straw colour; spicy, floral nose; full-bodied, creamy mouth-feel, soft on the palate but well balanced with a peachy flavour. (92)
  • CheckMate Little Pawn Chardonnay 2013 (The Barn Vineyard, Black Sage Bench – $110): straw colour; minerally, citrus, apple bouquet; rich, spicy, peach flavour with a floral note; lovely mouth feel, well integrated oak with precise acidity, ending on a butterscotch note. The most Burgundian in style of the five Chardonnays. (94)
  • CheckMate Fools Mate Chardonnay 2013 (The Barn Vineyard, Black Sage Bench – $80): straw colour; buttery, croissant nose; spicy pear and peach flavours, soft mouth feel but carried on lively acidity. (92)
  • CheckMate Queen Taken Chardonnay 2013 (Heritage Vineyard, Golden Mile Bench – $125): straw colour; minerally, smoky, white peach nose; ripe apple and peach flavours, elegant, mouth-filling peach and lychee flavours with a spicy note. (93)


CheckMate winemaker Phil Mcgahan

We then tasted two Napa Chardonnays to compare, Far Niente 2013 and Aubert 2013, which were weightier and more highly extracted, which speaks to a warmer growing season. Then lunch at which the five wines were paired with dishes.


Vaucluse menu for CheckMate wines – a world premiere tasting

After lunch I walked over to the Museum of Modern Art to see the Picasso sculpture exhibit and other works before catching the plane back to Toronto.

Several sculptures by Picasso…

Picasso sculpture

Picasso sculpture

Picasso sculpture

Picasso sculpture

…a Picasso painting…

Picasso painting

…a Chagall…

Chagall painting

…another Picasso…

Picasso painting

…Henri Rousseau…

Henri Rousseau painting

…and a Frida Kahlo self-portrait

Frida Kahlo self-portrait

Wednesday, November 18th: Spent the morning catching up on Grapes for Humanity business and then got down to some tasting after lunch.

  • Secreto Patagonico Chardonnay Limited Edition 2012 (Argentina – $18.95): straw colour with a green tint; spicy, oaky, tropical fruit nose; rich and mouth-filling, green pineapple flavour with nutty, toasty notes. Full-bodied with an acidic finish. (88)
  • Osborne Seven 2013 (Tierra de Castilla – Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon): deep ruby with a violet rim; earthy-spicy red berry bouquet; medium-bodied, soft mouth-feel, touch of sweetness with a finish of dusty tannins. (86+)
  • Osborne Solaz Tempranillo Cabernet Sauvignon 2014 (Tierra de Castilla – $11.45): deep ruby colour; cedary, earthy, leather nose with smoky notes; medium-bodied, dry, redcurrant and cherry flavours with a herbal tinge. (86+)
  • Osborne Bodegas Montecillo Tempranillo Crianza 2010 (Rioja – $11.95 until November 29th, then $14.95): deep ruby colour; sandalwood and strawberries on the nose; medium-bodied, dry, sour cherry flavour with oak notes; medium-bodied, dry with a firm tannic finish and fresh acidity. (86+)
  • Osborne Montecillo Reserva 2009 (Rioja – $18.95): deep ruby colour; sandalwood and plum bouquet; medium-bodied, dry, elegant, red plum flavour; nicely balanced, firmly structured with a minty note. A versatile food wine. (88)
  • Bodega Volcanes de Chile Cabernet Sauvignon–Syrah reserve 2014 (Rapel Valley – $9.95): deep ruby colour; cedary-herbal nose of black fruits; medium-bodied, dry and savoury, toasted herbs and blackberry flavours with lively acidity. Good value. (87)
  • Torres Altos Ibericos Crianza 2012 (Rioja – $16.95): ruby-purple colour; cedary-sandalwood nose of cherries with a spicy note; medium-bodied, dry, red berry fruit flavours with balancing acidity, Good length. Good mouth feel. (88)
  • Marques de Caceres Gran Reserva 2008 (Rioja – $29.95: Trempanillo and Garnacha): deep ruby colour; earthy, black plum nose; medium to full-bodied, black fruit flavours with vanilla oak spice notes. Lively acidity giving the wine a long finish. (90)

Thursday, November 19th: Began drawing up a list of potential judges for the Ontario Wine Awards next April. Then, a meeting with Sandy Kurbis to discuss the competition in a new format.

Friday, November 20th: A Vintages release tasting.

Saturday, November 21st: Conducted a Burgundy seminar at the Gourmet Wine & Food Expo with Jason Woodman, whose company, Woodman Wines, imports these wines. The line-up:

  • 2014 William Fèvre Chablis Champs Royaux
  • 2012 William Fèvre Vaillons 1er Cru Domaine
  • 2012 William Fèvre Bougros Grand Cru Domaine
  • 2014 Bouchard Père & Fils Macon Lugny St. Pierre $18
  • 2014 Bouchard Père & Fils Pouilly Fuisse $29
  • 2013 Bouchard Père & Fils Meursault Les Clous Domaine $50
  • 2013 Bouchard Père & Fils Bourgogne Reserve Pinot Noir
  • 2011 Bouchard Père & Fils Beaune du Château
  • 2012 Bouchard Père & Fils Beaune Grèves Vigne de l’Enfant Jésus

 

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A Wine Lover’s Diary, Part 571: Vitinord Conference

Monday, November 9th: Wrote my On the Go magazine wine reviews and went to record got 680 NEWS. My producer said my voice was still not right (because of the lingering cold) so I only did one week’s worth of recordings. I’ll have to go in next week. In the evening, a Grapes for Humanity dinner hosted by Geddy Lee and Alex Lifeson at Barberian’s – an auction item my friend Joe purchased. We were 13 at table in the wine cellar. Here is the menu:

Barberian's Menu: Grapes for Humanity Dinner. 1st Course: Warm Lobster Salad with Burnt Butter. 2nd Course: Bone-In Filet (14 oz) or Bone-In Rib Steak (16 oz). Served with Scalloped Potato, Beet Chips & a Seasonal Vegetable. 3rd Course: A Selection of the Finest Cheeses. 4th Course: Barberian's Bourbon Sundae. Coffee or Tea.

And here is a list of the wines that were donated for the evening:

  • Bouchard 2009 La Bolorée Champagne (Blanc de blancs of Pinot Blanc)
  • Pichler Loibenberg Grüner Veltliner 2007
  • Hirtzberger Hochrain Grüner Veltliner 2008
  • Domaine de Beaucastel Châteauneuf-du-Pape 1998
  • Domaine de Marcoux Vieilles Vignes Châteauneuf-du-Pape 2000
  • Pierre Usseglio Cuvée de Mon Aieul Châteauneuf-du-Pape 200I
  • Domaine de Pegau Reservée Châteauneuf-du-Pape 2003
  • Hugel Gewurztraminer SGN 1989

The wines of the night were the Pichler and the Beaucastel. Arron Barberian presented Geddy with a lifetime supply of Barberian’s steak spice.

Tuesday, November 10th: Up early to catch a flight to Chicago en route for Nebraska City to attend the Vitinord Conference. At Omaha airport I was met by a Quebecoise agronomist, Gaelle Dubé, in a Lied Lodge shuttle bus. We were joined by a young German couple, Anja Antes and Tobias Breit, also here for the conference. An hour’s drive to Lied Lodge in Nebraska City. The driver told me that Nebraska City has a population of 7,200. How come it’s called a city, I asked? He just shook his head.


Lied Lodge – a cathedral dedicated to trees

Lied Lodge is a cathedral to trees. There are inspirational messages about trees by Thoreau, Frank Lloyd Wright, Theodore Roosevelt and Rabindranath Tagore and others inscribed on the walls. But it must have taken thousands of trees to construct the building. Had dinner with the young German couple and ordered a bottle of Dog Point Sauvignon Blanc 2014.

Wednesday, November 11th: Breakfast in the dining room. I’d forgotten how large American portions are. I ordered a “short stack of buttermilk pancakes.” I could have ordered the long stack for another $2 but I could only eat half of the short stack. A woman at the next table ordered a large Coke for her breakfast.

Vitinord sign: 2015 VitiNord, Nebraska City, USA. www.Vitinord2015.org. International Cold Climate Viticulture & Enology Conference, November 11-15, 2015. Visit Nebraska. Visit Nice:

Sat in on a talk by Dr. Hans Rosenfeldt, a viticulturist and winemaker from Norway, on what was the world’s most northerly vineyard. First we had to establish what constitutes a vineyard – how many vines, what the grapes were used and whether the vineyard was a commercial proposition or not. The largest vineyard in Norway is one hectare west of Oslo where the owner makes sparkling wine from Solaris. Most vineyards in Norway are just a few rows of wines. Hans Rosenfeldt has 1200 square metres of greenhouses where he grows his grapes. After discussion from the floor, Mark Hart, acting as the unofficial secretary for the discussion, came up with the following notes and definition of a vineyard:

  • Size/extent: An outdoor vineyard of at least 100 vines and/or 0.1 hectares size.
  • Commercial nature: It must have produced 2 consecutive crops of ripe grapes, variety dependent.
  • Allowable protection: Protection for season extension is permissible, but the vines must not be protected from post-bloom to veraison.

Here is the composite description he developed:

A vineyard must be at least 100 vines or 0.1 hectares, permanently planted outdoors, and produce a ripe fruit crop for a product two consecutive years without protection during the midsummer period…

Tested out my PowerPoint presentation for tomorrow’s session. Had lunch (hamburger and fries) in the bar. At the opening ceremony for the congress the Chairman, Max McFarland, explained that the event is held every three years. The first was in Riga in 2006, followed by Ste. Hyacinthe in Quebec in 2009 and Neubrandenberg, Germany, in 2012. Eleven countries are represented this year and 19 US states.

A letter was slipped under my hotel door warning that there is a tornado watch on effect and what to do if the siren goes off. It’s raining hard outside and 60 mph winds are threatened.

This evening, a tasting of wines from Colorado, Illinois, Iowa, Kansas, Michigan, Missouri, Montana, New York, North Dakota, Pennsylvania, South Dakota, Vermont and Wisconsin. Tasted a lot of Marquette, Frontenac, St. Croix. Impressed by Tom Plocher’s crossings, Petite Pearl and Crimson Pearl. A winery in South Dakota, Valiant Vineyards, the oldest in the state, has a wine called Menopause Merlot. I grabbed this image from their website, as the wine wasn’t available for tasting:

Menopause Merlot

Thursday, November 12th: Prepared for my keynote address – “Building a Strong Model for Cool & Cold Climate Wine/Grape Industry Growth: Lessons Learned from Nova Scotia Success.” It seemed to go over well. Especially the final words when I did my Superman impression by opening my shirt to reveal this T-shirt:

Embrace ACIDITY

After my 45-minute session, I sat in on “The Anatomy & Physiology of Winter Hardiness” by Dr. Tim Martinson from Cornell. Then had a tasting with Rod Ballinger, the owner of Bear Creek Winery in Fargo, North Dakota, and Tom Plocher, who created the hybrids Petite Pearl and Crimson Pearl. Ron poured two vintages of a new crossing of Troubador and an unnamed Swenson variety called Verona, formerly known as T.P. 1-1-34. The 2012 was deep purple in colour with an earthy blackberry flavour, well extracted from with startlingly vibrant acidity. The 2013 was deeper in colour and richer, rounded out with some oak. Then we tasted Bear Creek Crimson Pearl 2013: deep ruby colour; plum on the nose, earthy with light oak notes. Bear Creek Petite Pearl 2012 was dense purple in colour. I thought I caught a touch of cork in the sample. But the 2013 vintage of the same wine was really rich and dense, reminiscent of a Touriga Nacional.

Bear Creek Petite Pearl 2013

A buffet lunch and then a Sparkling Wine Workshop presented by Larry Mawby, the proprietor of Mawby Winery in Suttons Bay, Michigan. We tasted the base wine for three different sparklers compared to the finished bubbly: Mawby Winery Vignoles 2014 and the Cremant Classic 2009; La Crescent 2014 and August Hill Stereo 2013; and Brianna 2015 and James Arthur Vineyards Solace.

For dinner a group of us went out for dinner in Nebraska City to a Chinese restaurant recommended by the congress organizers – Imperial Palace. It turned out to be a diner. You gave your order at the counter by the kitchen and they called out when your dish was ready – the worst Chinese meal I’ve ever had. But it was cheap.

At 8 pm a tasting of wines brought along by the participants in the Vitinord conference – wines from England, Germany, Norway, Sweden, Switzerland, Vancouver Island, Ontario, Quebec, Nova Scotia, New Brunswick as well as local Nebraska wineries. Really enjoyed Valentin Blattner Les Mergats from Switzerland – very Sauvignon Blanc-like.


Valentin Blattner with his Les Mergats 2014 from Switzerland


Motts Landing Vineyard Sabrevois 2013 from New Brunswick

Friday, November 13th: News reached us of the horrific terror attacks in Paris. At 10 am I attended my last session at the Vitinord conference. Chris Foss (with whom I shared the awful Chinese meal last night) delivered a lecture with slides on “Climate Change & Sustainability in Wine Production in the United Kingdom.” Chris is head of the wine department at Plumpton College near Brighton. Then I finished packing, had a spot of lunch before taking the hotel shuttle to Omaha for the flight to Chicago then on to Toronto.

On the second leg of the flight I was sitting next to an Indian woman from Goa who lives in Mississauga. She told me that her daughter and her husband were vacationing in Paris and had wanted to dine in Le Petit Cambodge restaurant but couldn’t get in. This was the restaurant where ISIS terrorists slaughtered the diners.

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