Tony Aspler, the Wine Guy

Monday, February 29th: Down to the ROM for the annual Ontario Wine tasting. Tasted through all the sparkling wines, Chardonnays and Pinot Noirs, then called it a day.

Dean Tudor gave me a copy of his wife Ann’s book, Fast & Fearless Cooking for the Genius. I had written a blurb for it: “At last a book for all us tentative and timorous wannabe chefs who yearn to prepare delicious meals fearlessly and fast. This volume is jazz, full of improvisations and unexpected riffs; but informed on every page by Ann Tudor’s love of food and open-hearted generosity in sharing her experience and kitchen-smarts with us less gifted practitioners of the wooden spoon.”

For dinner, roast chicken with Château des Charmes Pinot Noir 2012 (deep ruby colour; medium-bodied, dry, vanilla oak, cherry with a licorice note (88)).

Tuesday, March 1st: The month came in like the proverbial lion with a snow storm. Worked on my book.

Wednesday, March 2nd: Deborah dropped Pinot off at the vet’s to have her teeth cleaned. She has to be given an anesthetic. An expensive business – $831 with the blood test. In the next life I’m coming back as a vet.

David Rose and his partner Elaine came over to lunch. I opened a bottle of Bottega Rose Gold Sparkling Rosé with the marinated pork loin. In the evening to Sopra for a wine auction conducted by Tod Halpern to raise funds for the Carley’s Angels Foundation. Some terrific wines that raised $100,000.

Thursday, March 3rd: Spent much of the day writing and then started on a wine list for a restaurant called Bare Bistro in a nudist park, Bare Oaks Family Naturist Park. For dinner, grilled salmon with Château des Charmes Barrel Fermented Chardonnay 2014 (straw colour; a nose of apple butter with a toasty oak note; medium-bodied, dry, fresh, apple flavour with well-integrated oak (89)).

Friday, March 4th: Deborah dropped me down at the LCBO with my suitcase. After the Vintages release tasting Zoltan Szabo arrived at 3 pm in a limo to drive with Michael Vaughan and me down to Niagara Falls for Cuvée. We were booked into the Marriott Hotel opposite the Scotiabank Convention Centre where the event is being held this year. Great view of both the Canadian and American Falls from my room on the 31st floor.

View of the Falls from my hotel

I awarded my Cuvée Award of Excellence this year (the traditional engraved decanter) to Lloyd Schmidt. The citation was “For advancing viticulture in Ontario by accessing the best vinifera varietals from the nurseries of the world – and fighting bureaucracy to do it.”

Lloyd Schmidt

Saturday, March 5th: The limo took us to Trius, where head winemaker Craig McDonald prepared a tasting of the company’s sweet wines.

Craig McDonald

• Trius Showcase Late Harvest Vidal 2014 ($24.85, 9.4 g/L, 11% alcohol): straw colour with a lime tint; mango, honey, a touch of botrytis on the nose; rich and full on the palate, great balance, fresh and lively, honey and green pineapple and orange marmalade, barley sugar; clean with good length. (93)
• Peller Estates Riesling Icewine 2013 ($74, 40.9 Brix, 12.5 g/L acidity, 10.5% alcohol): old gold colour; honey, pineapple, leesy note on the nose; rich, opulent, sweet honeyed pear and tangerine, nicely balanced. (93.5)
• Trius Showcase Riesling Icewine 2012 ($70, 38.4 Brix, 10.5% alcohol, 9.5 g/L acid): deep old gold colour; minerally, light petrol note, floral, apple, orange, honey; well balanced. (95)
• Trius Vidal Icewine 2014 ($54, 39.5 Brix, 11% alcohol, 12.2 g/L): bright old gold colour; honey, mango, floral, Turkish Delight nose; barley sugar flavour with a hint of oak; quite broad on the palate (93)
• Peller Private Reserve Vidal Icewine 2014 (200 mL; $26.85, Brix 39.56, 11.8 g/L acidity, 11% alcohol): orange marmalade, toast, botrytis note floral with a hint of oak, pencil lead; honey, orange and pear flavours; clean, great length with a dried apricot finish. (94)
• Peller Estates Vidal Blanc Icewine 2014 (200 mL; $37.00, 39.2 Brix, 11% alc., 11.2 g/L): old gold colour; botrytis, honey, peach; great mouth-feel, beautifully balanced, orange marmalade with honey. Long finish. (95)
• Peller Estates Oak Aged Icewine 2014 (200 mL, 39.3 Brix, 216 g/L sugar, 12.0 g/L, 11% alcohol): old gold colour; vanilla, peach, honey, floral, orchard fruit nose; medium-bodied, light on the palate, elegant, orange marmalade; great length. (95)
• Trius Showcase Vidal Icewine 2014 ($60, 40 Brix, 11% alcohol, 12.7 g/L acidity; barrel-fermented, barrel-aged): amber colour; lifted licorice root, spicy, high-toned nose, honey, rustic; barley sugar, rich and opulent, mouth-filling molasses flavour, tangerine acidity; warm finish. (93)
• Wayne Gretzky Estates Vidal Icewine 2013 ($55, 39.2 Brix. 224 g/L sugar, 11% alcohol, 13.0 g/L): lemon yellow with a green tint; peach, tropical fruit, fresh and lively on the palate. (92)
• Peller Estates Brix 50 Icewine 2013 ($495, 50Brix, 340 g/L sugar, 11.4 g/L; 1528 bottles): deep amber colour; Tokaji-like nose of honeycomb, ginger, dried apricot, orange peel nose; unctuous, rich, velvety, honeyed grapefruit, amazing length. Extreme Icewine. (96)
• Inniskillin Vidal Icewine 1996 (in a 50mL bottle): Fernet Branca colour; soy, meaty, walnut nose; spicy, nutty, sherry-like, dried fig, brown sugar, lively acidity. (A curiosity.)

• Wayne Gretzky Estates Cabernet Franc Icewine 2013 ($85, 41.2 Brix, 232 g/L sugar, 11.5% alcohol, 9.1 g/L acidity): light ruby with an orange tint; wild strawberry, light floral note on the nose, mineral note with a touch of oak; sweet, strawberry jam; could do with a touch more acidity, warm finish. (93)
• Peller Estates Cabernet Franc Icewine 2013 ($52 for 200 mL, 40 Brix, 230 g/L sugar, 11.5% alcohol, 9.8 g/L acidity): light ruby colour; earthy, strawberry, tea leaf, touch of oak on the nose; full on the palate, sweet strawberry jam (92)
• Trius Showcase Cabernet Franc Icewine 2013 ($85; 42 Brix, 245 g/L sugar, 11.5% alcohol, 9.4 g/L acidity): light ruby colour; candied blackcurrant, black cherry nose, leafy note full-bodied, raspberry candy and honeyed pomegranate flavours with balancing acidity; great length with a sweet rhubarb finish. (94)

After the tasting we moved to another table for lunch (I ordered parsnip and white bean soup followed by Cornish hen – delicious meal). At lunch we tasted:

• Trius Showcase Wild Ferment Clean Slate Chardonnay Oliveira Vineyard 2013: straw colour; barnyard nose of vanilla oak and apple; medium-bodied, dry, apple and orange flavours, delicately oaked with great length (reminiscent of Margaret River Chardonnays). (92)
• Trius Showcase Wild Ferment Clean Slate Sauvignon Blanc 2013: straw colour with a green tint; a nose of grapefruit, passionfruit, and green plum with a toasty note; rich and full-bodied (13.9% alcohol), white Bordeaux style, very elegant and gently oaked. The best Sauvignon I’ve tasted in Canada. (93)
• Trius Ghost Creek Riesling 2014: Almost water white in colour; developing petrol notes behind the lime, éégrapefruit and honey tones; light on the palate at 8.8% alcohol but lots of flavour with great tension between the citrus and honeyed yellow apple flavours. (92)
• Trius Showcase Clark Farm Pinot Noir 2014: light ruby colour; high-toned spicy, cherry nose with mineral notes and a touch of oak; dry, medium-bodied, light on the palate with cranberry and beetroot flavours and a tart sour cherry finish. Needs time. (89–91)
• Trius Showcase Clark Farm Pinot Noir 2013: a shade deeper ruby in colour than the 2014; a nose of violets, smoke, cherry with mineral and vanilla oak notes; medium-bodied, dry with cherry and mushroom flavours. Very much in Volnay style. (91)
• Trius Showcase Red Shale Cabernet Franc 2012: deep ruby in colour; inky, savoury nose of cedar, tar, ripe black plum and vanilla oak; medium-bodied, dry, elegant and firmly structured with a damson flavour lifted with a floral note. Very St. Emilion in style. A gorgeous wine. (93)
• Trius Showcase RHS Merlot 2012: deep ruby colour; spicy, blueberry, pencil lead nose; medium-bodied, dry, richly extracted earthy and dry with blueberry and licorice flavours, finishing with firm tannins. (91)

On our way back to Toronto we stopped at 13th Street Winery to buy butter tarts. I bought a dozen, six of which I took over to James Harbeck and Aina Arro’s for dinner tonight. James cooked filet steak in a cherry sauce, sweet potato with coconut yoghurt, and salads followed by meringues with sabayon. I brought over a bottle of Trius Rosé Sparkling and Antinori Albis 2008. Also on the table – Château Ducru-Beaucaillou 1989 and Marimar Estate Doña Margarita Vineyard Mas Cavalls Pinot Noir 2007 and, served with the meringues and sabayon, Tawse Select Late Harvest Cabernets 2006. With the butter tarts, a glass of Madeira.

Monday, February 22nd: A winerytohome tasting at Doug Towers’s house. Still suffering from a cold, which meant I didn’t even feel like wine for dinner. Have to be up early tomorrow to catch a 9 am flight to Vancouver for the wine festival. This is the 38th year of the Festival. The host country this year is Italy.

Tuesday, February 23rd: A 7 am limo to the airport, where it seemed that half of Toronto was waiting in line to go through security. Slept for an hour or so on the flight in spite of the screaming baby two rows back. My friend Rick Slomka was on the same flight. My daughter Annabel (with my grandson Declan in the baby seat) picked us up. Dropped Rick at his hotel and then back to Annabel’s house to spend some time with Declan before being dropped at the Fairmont Pacific Rim Hotel.

View from my room at the Fairmont Pacific Rim

My room on the 16th floor overlooks Burrard Inlet and the mountains beyond. A beautiful sunny day to improve the magnificent view. Tonight I was meant to participate in my first event of the Festival – “From Bubbles to Passito” at Vij’s restaurant, featuring ten wines from Giustini. But I was too tired from three nights of not sleeping because of coughing and the travel so I decided it would be best to have an early night, since the event was scheduled to end at 1:30 am my body time.

Wednesday, February 24th: A great night’s sleep and awoke refreshed at 6:30 am. My first event today is a seminar on “Italy’s Indigenous Whites,” moderated by Ian D’Agata, Michaela Morris and Gurvinder Bahia. Ian argues that Italy should be approached by its grape varieties rather than by its DOCs or DOCGs. “Italy is a country that throws at you wines made from some 600 grapes.”

The incomparable Ian d’Agata

(Prices quoted here are the cost of the wine in BC).

• Mionetto Valdobiaddene Supriore di Cartizze Dry ($50.42) (Cartizze appellation is the most expensive vineyard land in Italy): pale straw colour; minerally, white peach, pear skin nose; dry, white peach, creamy, beautifully balanced with a long citrus finish. (91)
• Bartolomeo Breganze “sulla Rotta del Bacala” Vespaiolo Breganze 2014 ($24.99): bright, light straw colour; minerally, flinty, crab apple, herbal-floral nose; medium-bodied, dry, lively acidity, green apple with white flowers, beautifully balanced. (89)
• Frescobaldi-Attems Ribolla Gialla 2014 ($17.39): bright, pale straw with a lime tint; minerally, wet salt, green herbs, white pepper and white blossoms on the nose; medium-bodied, citrus-driven, well-balanced, fresh and lively on the palate. (89) (Only 150 hectares of Ribolla planted in Italy.)
• Vietti Rorero Arneis 2013 ($34.79) (Arneis was once known as White Nebbiolo): pale straw colour; smoky, minerally, leather, pencil lead, citrus, light floral note; spicy, creamy, beautifully balanced, crisply dry apple-peach flavour. Good length. (90)
• Tedeschi Capitel Tenda Soave Classico 2014 ($25.99): light straw colour; floral, spicy, peach, tobacco and almond note; light-bodied, citrus and peach flavours; medium to full-bodied; very elegant, fresh and lively on the palate with a tangerine acidity. (91)
• Tiberio Pecorino 2014 (Colline Pescaresi – $27.99): bright straw colour; green herbs, minerally, salty, green tea and peach nose; medium to full-bodied, rich and spicy on the palate, lively and fresh, driving acidity with great length. (90)
• Zenato Azienda “Sergio Zenato” Lugana Riserva 2013 ($38): medium straw colour; creamy, vanilla, minerally, dried flowers on the nose; full on the palate, lovely mouth-feel, full on the palate, touch of sweetness in mid palate; well balanced, a touch hard on the finish. (89)
• Agricolas “Costamolino” Vermentino di Sardegna 2014 ($17.99): light straw colour; aromatic, lilac, minerally nose; rich and spicy, rich and full in the mouth; beautifully balanced, full-bodied, some heat on the finish. (89)
• Ronco del Gelso “Vigna della Permuta” Malvasia Isonzo 2014 ($27.99): pale straw with a lime tint; aromatic, minerally, pear, citrus peel nose; dry, orange and tangerine flavours; light and lacy rose petal finish. A charming wine. (90)
• Quintodecimo “Giallo d’Arles” Greco di Tufo 2013 ($60.89) (a tannic white grape): bright straw colour; earthy-floral, citrus nose with white pepper notes on the nose; dry, savoury, evident tannins, well structured, rich and complex, great length. (91)
• Tenuta Olim Bauda “Centive” Moscato d’Asti 2015 ($24.95): very pale colour; spicy, orange blossom, honeyed nose; light-bodied, with orange and honey flavours. East drinking. (89)
• Donnafugata “Ben Ryé” Passito di Pantelleria 2011 (Moscato d’Alessandria – $37.39): amber colour; honey, orange peel, raisins, dates and figs on the nose; full-bodied, burnt sugar, molasses flavours, beautifully balanced with enough acidity to balance and give great length. (94)

Cioppino’s in Yale Town

Availed myself of the Fairmont Pacific Rim car to be driven to Cioppino’s in Yale Town for dinner. Sat next to Anthony Gismondi and Pio Boffa of Pio Cesare. On my right, Gianni Bertolino of Tenuta Olim Bauda (who makes some of the best Barbera I’ve tasted).

Pio Boffa of Pio Cesare

This was the best wine and food pairing dinner I’ve attended! Great food, magnificent wines.

Thursday, February 25th: Morning tasting, “Italy’s Great Wines: Evolution North to South.”

• Ferrari Perlé Nero 2008 (Pinot Nero – $66.99, 8 years on lees): straw colour, tiny bubbles; leesy, green apple nose with a light floral note and a mineral thread; medium-bodied, crisply dry, biscuity, toasty apple and lemon flavours; creamy mid palate with a green nut finish. (90)
• Umani Ronchi Vecchi Vigne, Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi Classico Superiore 2013 (50 year old vines – $29.99): bright straw colour; peachy, almond, citrus nose; medium- to full-bodied, dry, richly extracted peachy-apricot flavour, lovely mouth-feel, rich and powerful. Great length. (91)
• Specogna Friulano Colli Orientali dei Friuli 2014 ($22.99): bright straw colour; herbal, spicy, forest floor, minerally, wet salt nose with herbal notes; crisply dry, medium-bodied, winter melon with a bitter almond finish. (88)
• Medici Ermete “Querciol Sobara” Lambrusco ($18.99): deep pink colour; raspberry candy nose with a light floral note; light spritz, raspberry with a lively acidic spine; dry, light-bodied, raspberry with lemonflavours. Charming and easy drinking. (89)
• Paolo Cali “Manene” Cerasuolo di Vittoria Classico 2012 ($45.99): Sicily’s only DOCG wine. Deep ruby-purple colour; rose and plum bouquet with a touch of oak; medium-bodied, dry, savoury tobacco and plum flavours, firm but supple tannins with a fine spine of acidity. (89.5)
• Barone Ricasoli Castello di Brolio Chianti Classico Gran Selezione 2010 ($70.00): dense ruby colour; lifted nose of cherry with a floral note, tobacco, vanilla oak nose with a pencil lead note; medium-bodied, dry, lovely textures and savoury flavours of cherries and tobacco and gently intrusive oak with a floral note; firm finish. Very elegant and well-balanced. (92.5)

• Masi Agricola “Osar” Rosso del Veronese 2009 (Oseleta grapes, $59.99): dense purple colour; vanilla oak, black cherry nose with a spicy, floral note; medium-bodied, dry, tannic, very firm. earthy, muscular. (3 years in new wood.) Needs time. (89–90)
• Biondi Santi Jacopo Brunello di Montalcino 2009 ($174.95): mature ruby colour; dried cherries and leather on the nose with gardenia notes; dry, medium-bodied, pencil lead, dried cherries, firmly structured; very elegant, seamless. Very youthful. (93)
• Mastroberadino Taurasi 2008 (Aglianico – $48.95): dense purple-ruby colour; lovely nose of black fruits, black cherry, floral with a vanilla oak note; full-bodied, dry with a rustic flavour of black fruits with fresh acidity and lots of grip with unresolved tannins. Still young, needs 10 years. (91–93)
• Pio Cesare Ornato Barolo 2010 ($109.95): deep ruby colour; lifted rose, cherry and leather nose; dry, medium-bodied, elegant, savoury, cherry, blackcurrant and licorice flavours; firmly structured, ripe tannins. Hold at least five years. (92)
• Argiolas “Angialis” Isola del Nuraghi vino da uve stramature 2012 (Nasco and Malvasia – appassimento, aged in barrique 18 months – $49.99): old gold colour; floral, honey, orange, cardamom; rich and full on the palate, beautifully balanced and seamless. (95)

The best sweet wine I tasted at the Festival

Lunch followed by a walk-around tasting. There are 155 wineries from 14 countries (including 60 wineries from Italy) pouring 1,470+ wines at 54 events to a projected 25,000 admissions. Met up with Lindsay Greatbatch of Decanter Magazine, who is researching the possibility of a Decanter event in Toronto next year.

Next, a seminar, “Barone Ricasoli – 1000 Years in Tuscany,” led by Barone Francesco Ricasoli and chaired by Anthony Gismondi.

• Barone Ricasoli Albia Rosé Toscana 2014 (Sangiovese, Merlot): flesh colour; minerally, cherry pit nose; off-dry, red berry flavour, fresh and lively; good mouth-feel. (87.5)
• Barone Ricasoli Torricella Bianco 2013 (Chardonnay with 20% Sauvignon Blanc): medium straw colour; apple and citrus nose; creamy, vanilla, apple and passionfruit with a mineral thread and a touch of sweetness. Commercial, easy drinking. (87)
• Barone Ricasoli Chianti Classico 2013: deep ruby colour; cherry and roast chestnut nose; medium-bodied, dry and savoury sour cherry flavour with a note of spice. (88)
• Barone Ricasoli Chianti Classico Riserva 2012: deep ruby colour; creamy, cherry nose with oak spice; sappy, fresh, cherry nose; medium-bodied, dry, firm; light on the palate. Easy drinking. (88.5)
• Barone Ricasoli Colledilà Gran Selezione Chianti Classico 2010: dense ruby colour; savoury, herbal, sour cherry with a floral note; medium-bodied, dry, dark chocolate, grainy tannins with lively acidity. (90)
• Barone Ricasoli Casalferro 2010 (100% Merlot): deep ruby-purple colour; vanilla, blueberry nose; medium-bodied, dry, fruity, lovely mouth-feel with a firm finish; lively acidity. (91)
• Barone Ricasoli Casalferro Rosso Toscana 1997 (Sangiovese with 5-10% Merlot): dense ruby; cedar, leather, dried cherries with a saline note; savoury, herbal, balsamic and soy notes. (90)
• Barone Ricasoli Castello di Brolio Gran Selezione Chianti Classico 2010: dense ruby colour; leather, cherry, earthy-spicy nose; medium-bodied, dry, well-extracted flavours of cherries, herbs and cocoa. Firm finish. (91)
• Barone Ricasoli Castello di Brolio Chianti Classico 1997: deep ruby colour; soy and balsamic notes on the nose, tobacco. Some sweetness in mid palate. Drying out but taking on some venerable claret notes. A grand old wine, and still delicious. (90)

Dinner with Annabel & Ian at Chambar Restaurant. Escargots in a cream sauce, followed by mussels in a white wine sauce with French fries and mayonnaise. The wine: Blue Mountain Gamay Noir 2014.

Friday, February 26th: Today I have to change hotels from the Fairmont Pacific Rim to the Loden, a boutique hotel on Melville Street, a five-minute walk away. A meeting with the Fairmont’s PR lady Kaylyn Story before the first of today’s seminars, “Barbera Variations,” featuring Giacomo Bologna Braida wines, led by his son-in-law, Dr. Norbert Reinisch. The late Giacomo Bologna was the first to put Barbera in barrique. (I remember a great evening in 1985 when Giacomo Bologna, who was known as “The Pope of Verona,” Angelo Gaja, Georgio Grai, Franco Precedello and I went down to the cellar of Bottega del Vino in Verona and began a heroic wine tasting with great plates of pasta.) “You have to reduce the crop up to 40–50% to make a good Barbera,” says Reinisch. 80 hL per hectare are allowed, which is too much. 60 hL would be perfect to make quality Barbera. Barbera is the third most widely planted red variety in Italy.

Barbera Variations

• Braida La Monella Barbera del Monteferrato Frizzante 2014 (La Monella means “naughty girl”): deep ruby; sour cherry; light-bodied, dry with a light spritz, light on the palate although 12.9% alcohol. Easy drinking, black cherry with fresh acidity. (88.5)
• Braida Il Monello Barbera d’Asti 2011 (stainless steel fermented): deep ruby colour; more intense nose of blackberry and black cherry; medium-bodied, dry, blackberry, licorice flavours with lively acidity; medium-bodied, dry with a touch of bitterness. (89)
• Braida Il Baciale Monferrato Rosso 2013 (60% Barbera, 20% Pinot Noir, 10% Cabernet Sauvignon, 10% Merlot): dense purple colour; violets, vanilla, cedar, black cherry nose; medium-bodied, dry, lovely spicy fruit flavour, well balanced, firm finish with a mocha note. (90)
• Braida Montebruna Barbera d’Asti 2014: dense purple colour; tobacco, black cherry with a cedar notes; medium-bodied, dry with lively acidity; fresh and lively on the palate with focussed fruit and a floral grace note. Lovely mouth feel. (90)
• Braida Bricco dell’Uccellone Barbera d’Asti 2013: dense purple-ruby colour; vanilla, cedar, blackberry-black cherry, mocha, with wood spice; medium-bodied, dry, savoury, firm on the palate with lively acidity. Beautifully balanced and seamless. (91)
• Braida Bricco della Bigotta Barbera d’Asti 2013: dense purple colour; pronounced tobacco, vanilla oak, black cherry nose; richly extracted sweet cherry with lively acidity with a cherry pit finish. (91.5)
• Braida Bricco della Bigotta Barbera d’Asti 2009: dense purple-black in colour; toasty, roasted note on the nose spicy black fruit, pencil lead; full-bodied, fleshy, dry, savoury, blackberry and dark chocolate; firmly structured with a lively spine of acidity. (92)
• Braida Bricco della Bigotta Barbera d’Asti 2006: dense ruby-black colour; cigar leaf, cedar, vanilla oak, red berry with a soy note; firmly structured. Medium-bodied, dry, mocha note, reminiscent of a mature Bordeaux. Still showing tannin. A delicious wine. (90)

At 5:15 pm Rhys Pender MW and I led a Decanter-sponsored seminar entitled “Iconic Grapes Around the World.”

• Cleto Chiarli Vigneto Cladini Lambursco Grasparossa di Castelvetro 2014
• Schloss Johannisberg Riesling Trocken Gelblack QBA 2014
• Miguel Torres Albariño “Pazo das Bruxas” Rias Baixas 2014
• Meyer Family Reimer Vineyard Pinot Noir 2014
• Marqués de Riscal Gran Reserva Rioja 2005
• Damilano Brunate Barolo 2011
• Poplar Grove Okanagan Syrah 2012
• Viña Montes Purple Angel Carmenère 2013
• Stina Plavac Mali Majstor 2011
• Argiano Brunello di Montalcino 2011
• Majella Wines Coonawarra Cabernet Sauvignon 2013
• Grgich Hills Estate Yountville Selection Cabernet Sauvignon 2011

Dinner at Tableau restaurant in the Loden – steak frites with a side order of Brussel sprouts, a glass of Bellingham Old Vines Chenin Blanc 2014 and Nichol Syrah 2014.

Spring comes early in Vancouver

Saturday, February 27th: The main event to day is at noon – “Taste Italia!”: food stations in the middle of the room with 60 Italian wineries at tables around the walls, each offering two wines. Best wine of the lunch that I tasted was Allegrini Palazzo delle Torre IGT Veronese 2012. Spent the rest of the day with Annabel, Ian, baby Declan (who turns two next Saturday). Ian prepared a delicious spaghetti with black garlic and rose sauce and opened a bottle of Argiano Brunello di Montalcino 2008.

Sunday, February 28th: Up at 7 am to pack. Annabel, Ian and Declan picked me up to drive me to the airport for my 10 am flight to Toronto. A great five days in Vancouver for the wine festival. Next year Canada is the featured country, which is only fitting as it’s Canada’s 150th birthday.

Sunday, February 14th: Over to Michael Vaughan’s for tasting of sweet wines.

• Grand Pré Riesling Icewine 2013: amber, old gold colour; an unctuous nose of honey, butter and barley sugar; full-bodied, spicy, orange and honey flavour; sweet but beautifully balanced with mouth-freshening acidity; Great balance and great length. A triumph from Nova Scotia. One of the best Riesling Icewines I’ve tasted. (95)
• Château Filhot 2010: light golden colour; honey, leafy nose with botrytis notes; rich and full on the palate with engaging redcurrant, honey and burnt sugar flavours; thick and rich on the palate. (91+)
• De Bortoli Noble One Botrytis Semillon 2011: amber colour; intense barley sugar, burnt orange peel nose; concentrated sweet orange marmalade and toast; surprisingly medium-bodied for the intensity of flavour; beautifully balanced with great length. (94)
• Rustenberg Straw Wine 2011 (Chenin Blanc, Viognier, Crouchen): old gold colour; pried peach and warm hay nose with botrytis notes; rich, unctuous flavours of honey, peach and sweet tangerine with enough acidity for balanced. A tad short on finish. (91)
• Fleur du Cap Noble Late Harvest 2008 (58% Semillon 42% Rhine Riesling): deep amber-orange colour; high-toned, lilac, orange and barley sugar bouquet with botrytis notes; rich and full on the palate with honey and mango flavours well balanced with citrus acidity. (93)
• Château Doisy-Védrines 2007 (opened several months ago on Michael’s birthday at The Fifth): old gold colour; barley sugar nose; intense raisin and toffee flavours, beautifully balanced. (92)

Then a dinner of chili. Michael brought out blind a bottle of Magnotta Cabernet Sauvignon 1991 – remarkably still very much alive and could be mistaken for a red Bordeaux.

Magnotta Cabernet Sauvignon 1991

Monday, February 15th: Wrote my 680 NEWS wines reviews and worked on my book. For dinner, lamb chops with Château Guillou Montagne Saint-Émilion 2012 ($18.95): deep ruby colour; cedar, blackberry and vanilla oak nose with floral note; medium-bodied, dry, savoury finishing on a tarry note. (89)

Tuesday, February 16th: Selected Argentinian wines for a tasting at Hola in April and put together a blind tasting for a group of fund-raisers. In the evening Deborah and I went to the 70th birthday party of a friend at Pangea. The wines: Pol Roger 1996 Winston Churchill, Louis Latour Montrachet 2006, Leroy Romanée Saint-Vivant and Château d’Yquem 1990.

Wednesday, February 17th: Recorded my 680 NEWS reviews and worked on the book. In the evening our condo screened The Revanant.

Thursday, February 18th: Got the official press release that OWA is partnering with the Lieutenant Governor’s Awards for Excellence in Ontario Wines. Spend much of the day writing fiction (what a pleasure). Then got down to some serious tasting.

• Southbrook Vineyards Seriously Cool Chardonnay 2015 (Ontario – $15.95): light straw colour; apple, white flowers and a whisper of oak on the nose; medium-bodied, dry, un-buttered popcorn and green apple flavour. A touch hard on the finish but good value. (87.5)
• Henry of Pelham Family Tree White 2012 (Ontario – $17.95: 60% Chardonnay, 20% Viognier, 11% Gewurztraminer, 9% Sauvignon Blanc): medium straw colour; spicy, honeysuckle and peach nose; dry, aromatic, medium-bodied, spicy, lychee and grapefruit flavours with a firm finish. (88.5)
• Culmina Decora Riesling 2014 (Okanagan – $24.95): pale straw colour; spicy grapefruit with a petrol note; medium-bodied, dry, elegant, lime and grapefruit flavours, fresh and lively on the palate with bracing acidity and a mineral finish. (90)
• Meiomi Chardonnay 2014 (Sonoma County/Santa Barbara County – $26.95): straw colour with a green tint; spicy, honey and apple bouquet; full-bodied, richly extracted mango, pineapple, orange and toast flavours. Great length with a clove finish. (89)
• Joie Farm “En Famille” Reserve Chardonnay 2013 (Okanagan Valley – $38): bright straw colour; toasty, nutty, apple nose with vanilla oak notes; medium-bodied, dry, toasty, green pineapple and butterscotch flavours; rich and full on the palate with great length and balancing acidity. (92)
• Joie Farm Viognier 2014 (Okanagan Valley – $27.90): straw colour; spicy, honeysuckle, peach nose; medium-bodied, aromatic, dry, peachy-melon flavour with citrus acidity, well balanced with fresh acidity. (89.5)
• Joie Farm Gewurztraminer 2013 (Okanagan Valley – $27.90): straw colour; lychee, rose petal nose; medium-bodied, dry, perfumed, exotic, Turkish Delight flavour, beautifully balanced, elegant , perfumed. A very sexy wine. (91)
• Southbrook Vineyards Seriously Cool Red 2012 (Ontario – $15.95: Gamay, Pinot Noir, Zweigelt): ruby colour; earthy, red plum and cherry nose; light to medium-bodied, fruity and fresh, easy drinking with a lick of tannin on the finish. Chillable. (87)
• Henry of Pelham Family Tree Red 2013 (Ontario – $18.95; 40% Syrah, 30% Merlot, 15% Cabernet Franc, 10% Cabernet Sauvignon, 5% Baco Noir): deep purple colour; cedary, spicy nose of black fruits with a touch of vanilla oak; medium-bodied, dry, good mouth-feel with blackcurrant and black cherry flavours; well-integrated oak with cinnamon and white pepper notes on the finish. (89)
• Henry of Pelham Estate Cabernet-Merlot 2012 (Ontario – $24.95): deep purple-ruby colour; cedary, red and blackcurrant nose; medium-bodied, dry, well-extracted flavours of plum and currants, well-structured and very Bordelais in style with cocoa-like tannins. (89.5)
• Hogue Cellars Genesis Meritage 2012 (Columbia Valley – $18.95: 38% Merlot, 32% Cabernet Sauvignon, 24% Malbec, 5% Petit Verdot): deep ruby colour; cedar and vanilla oak, spicy black cherry with a hlight floral note on the nose; medium- to full-bodied, dry, cherry, plum and dark chocolate flavours with ripe tannins. (89.5)
• Tom Gore Vineyards California Cabernet Sauvignon 2013 ($17): deep ruby-purple colour; cedar, pencil lead, plum nose; medium-bodied, sweet flavours of cherry and currants with notes of coffee bean and mocha and a tannic lift on the finish. A good commercial wine with a warm alcoholic finish. (87.5)
• Ravenswood Lodi County Series Old Vine Zinfandel 2014 ($19.95): deep ruby colour; earthy, leather, plum and vanilla oak nose with a smoky note; full-bodied, dry, plum flavour with evident acidity and drying tannins. (87.5)
• Villa Mora Montefalco Sagrantino 2009 (Umbria – $24.95): deep ruby colour; cherry, white pepper nose with oak notes; medium-bodied, dry, savoury, dark chocolate and cherry flavours with a floral top note; mouth-filling and rich, well balanced but needs more time for the tannins to soften. (89–91)
• Château Mont-Redon Châteauneuf-du-Pape 2011 ($43.95): deep ruby colour; herbal, savoury nose of black cherries; spicy, cherry and red berry flavours marked with dried herbs; dry, elegant and fleshy with a warm alcoholic finish. Drinking well now but will hold for five years at least. (90)

Friday, February 19th: A Vintages release tasting this morning. Intrigued by one of the weirdest wine labels I’ve seen – Alexander vs The Ham Factory from Ribera del Duero.

Monday, February 8th: Down to the AGO for a seminar on “United Wines of Veneto” conducted by Michael Fagan. We tasted:

• Raphael dal Bo Prosecco Extra Dry Organic: very pale colour with a marshmallow and citrus peel nose topped with a floral note; dry, light and airy, apple flavour; good mouth-feel, creamy and well balanced. (88.5)
• Domus-pictA Conegliano Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore Extra Dry: pale straw colour; minerally, citrus peel nose; beautifully balanced, fresh and lively apple flavour with a floral flourish on the finish; lovely mouth-feel. (90)
• Azienda Agricola Benazzoli Bardolino Chiaretto Spumante “Ruffiano” 2014: salmon colour; strawberry-cherry nose with a leafy note; light to medium-bodied, sour cherry flavour with a long citrus finish, crisp with a finish of cinnamon and apple peel. (88.5)
• Ornello Molon Traverso Raboaso Riserva 2010 (a grape I had not tasted before): deep dark ruby colour; a nose of vanilla oak and plum; medium to full-bodied, rustic, cedary flavours of black cherry amd lum with a tannic, earthy, pencil lead finish. (89.5)

This was followed by another seminary on the impressive Franciacorta wines of Ricci Curbastro led by the proprietor, Riccardo Ricci Curbastro.

Riccardo Ricci Curbastro

• Ricci Curbastro Franciacorta Dosaggio Zero Gualberto 2008 (Pinot Noir and Chardonnay): bright straw colour; a nose of brioche apple, honey and white flowers; crisply dry, elegant and beautifully balanced; good length ending on a mineral note. A lovely bubbly. (91.5)
• Ricci Curbastro Brut N/V (60% Chardonnay, 30% Pinot Blanc, 10% Pinot Noir): pale straw colour; toasty, floral, minerally nose; flavours of pear and toast with leesy, citrus notes; creamy on the palate with a dry finish. (89)
• Ricci Curbastro Franciacorta Satèn Brut 2011: pale straw colour with a greenish tint; creamy, vanilla, apple and toast bouquet; mouth-filling apple and nutty flavours; soft mouth-feel with a lingering citrus finish. (90.5)
• Ricci Curbastro Curtefranca Bianco Vigna Bosco Alto 2011 (100% Chardonnay): pale straw colour; toasty, leesy apple nose with wood spice; rich apple, vanilla and toast flavours – oak dominates, full-bodied. (89)
• Ricci Curbastro Curtefranca Vigna Santella del Gröm 2011 (30% Cabernet Franc, 12% Carmenère, 20% Cabernet Sauvignon, 28% Merlot, 10% Barbera): deep ruby colour; cedary, leafy, red and blackcurrant aromas; medium-bodied, dry, white pepper and currant flavours; finishes firmly on a lead pencil note. (89.5)
• Ricci Curbastro Brolo dei Passoni Chardonnay Passito Sebino 2010: deep golden colour; honey, dried peach nose with a note of botrytis; full-bodied, toffee, apricot and honey flavours, medium sweet, beautifully balanced with a spicy, tangerine finish. (93)

Ricci Curbastro Brolo dei Passoni Chardonnay Passoni Sebino 2010

Upstairs at the AGO, 20 Italian wineries were showing their products, trying to find importing agents. Not the best scenario for wine writers, as they would rather speak with potential importers than the wine press. So I tasted a delicious Barbera (Colle Manora Pais 2014 from Monferrato – medium-bodied, dry cherry flavour, fresh and lively with a floral note: 89) and left.

Tuesday, February 9th: Spent much of day working on the novel. Tasted the remainder of a bottle that a friend had passed on to me: Fabre Montmayou Grand Vin 2013 from the Mendoza Valley (85% Malbec/10% Cabernet Sauvignon/5% Merlot): dense purple-black colour that stains the glass; a nose of chocolate, vanilla oak, tobacco with a cedary note; intense an full-bodied, spicy blackberry flavour; mouth-filling blackberry and blueberry with chocolate notes; chunky mouth-feel; rich, full and fleshy but firm, finishing on a licorice and floral note. The best wine I’ve tasted from Argentina. (92.5)

Wednesday, February 10th: The weather has turned very cold. Wrote my Wines of the Week column input notes for the February 20th release. For dinner, lasagna with a bottle of Kacaba Silver Bridge Vineyard Syrah 2013 (deep purple colour; cedary, blackberry nose with oak spice, smoke, tobacco and white pepper; dry, lean and savoury sour cherry flavour, medium-bodied with lively acidity and a firm tannic finish (89)).

Thursday, February 11th: At 2:30 pm a meeting with the Lieutenant Governor’s office to discuss the possibility of using Ontario Wine Awards judges to determine the Lieutenant Governor Awards for Excellence in Ontario Wines. The on to a meeting with Angela Aiello and her iYellow team to firm up our partnership agreement for the Ontario Wine Awards and the consumer tasting of medal-winners at George Brown.

Friday, February 12th: We’ve purchased an induction top stove and have sold our glass-top electric stove to a couple from Belleville who arrived this morning to take it away. Only problem is that we take delivery of the new stove on February 17th. At least we have the toaster oven and the microwave, even if it’s too cold to BBQ. Went down to the LCBO to taste 24 new releases.

Saturday, February 13th: My son Guy’s birthday today. Pinot T. Wonderdog is featured in the Toronto Star (see www.thestar.com/life/2016/02/13/meet-tony-asplers-wheaten-terrier-pinot-t-wonderdog.html).

Monday, February 1st: No snow yet. This is an amazing winter. Worked on my 680 NEWS wine reviews and polished the article for the International Wine & Food Society’s magazine. Tasted a couple of wines in the evening:

• Gabbiano Chianti 2014 (90%Sangiovese, 10% Merlot): ruby colour; herb-tinged sour cherry nose; medium-bodied, dry with a lean, cherry flavour and lively acidity. (87.5)
• Clos du Bois Calcaire 2013 (Sonoma County – $29.95): straw colour; apple, baked corn and butter on the nose with citrus notes; medium-bodied, dry, white peach and citrus flavours with a touch of oak spice. Nicely balanced. (89)

Tuesday, February 2nd: A make-up tasting at the LCBO for the March Vintages release. In the afternoon wrote my columns for Post City Magazines and On The Go.

Wednesday, February 3rd: Recorded my 680 NEWS wine reviews and worked on the novel. In the evening, down to Vertical restaurant in First Canadian Place for an interesting wine event: a Master of Wine v. Master Sommelier taste off – Igor Ryjenkov of the LCBO and John Szabo. Prior to the event they tasted through some 27 wines provided by the importing agents, Noble Estates and Trialto. They then chose wines to match this menu:

Before each course was served, both explained the rationale behind their selection – with a bit of trash talk thrown in for good measure. The guests then sampled the food and wine match and then voted as to their favoured pairing. I placed John Szabo ahead by one point. The wine of the night for me Fattoria dei Barbi Riserva Brunello di Montalcino 2005. With the dessert two sweet wines were served, Zind Humbrecht Gewürztraminer Sélection de Grains Nobles 2007 and 13th Street 13 Below Zero Riesling 2010. A fun event with great food and delicious wines.

My white of the night

My red of the night

One of the best Pinotages I’ve tasted in a long time

Zind Humbrecht dessert wines

Thursday, February 4th: Interviewed Anthony von Mandl by phone for an upcoming article on Mission Hill Winery.

Friday, February 5th: A Vintages release tasting today. Stopped for my habitual New York fries on the way home. A quick nap and a shower then down to the National Club for the annual Drinks Ontario dinner. This year Portugal is the host country. Three wines with each course:

I presented Joanna Steele with the customary engraved decanter and certificate as the winner of my blind tasting award.

Joanna Steele, winner of the Tony Aspler Blind Tasting Award