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A Wine Lover’s Diary, part 983: On Seven, I4C, a Great Dinner Party and an Outdoor Concert

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A sign for the School of Cool

Monday, July 14th: A tasting at On Seven winery conducted by winemaker Peter Gamble and owner Vittorio De Stefano.

On Seven Pursuit 2023 (not yet bottled; 22% new wood; 31 months in air-dried Damy French oak barrels, $48)
Bright straw in colour with a greenish tint; toasty, creamy nose, apple custard with vanilla oak notes; full-bodied, dry, richly extracted apple, pineapple and lemon flavours, rich mouth feel, beautifully balanced, well-integrated oak; Maçonnais style. A seamless wine. (94)

On Seven Pursuit Chardonnay 2021 ($48)
Old gold in colour; slightly reductive, baked apple nose with vanilla, a suggestion of caramel and a floral top note; full-bodied, dry, richly extracted, apple and Macadamia nut flavours carried on bright acidity. (93)

On Seven Devotion Chardonnay 2021 ($68)
Old gold in colour; toasty, spicy, apple bouquet with vanilla notes; full-bodied, dry, mouth-filing, rich and spicy apple flavour with clove and cinnamon notes; beautifully balanced; lovely mouth feel. An elegant, seamless wine. (94)

On Seven Chardonnay 2021 (a new, special selection top-tier, flagship wine this vintage; to be bottled in a few weeks, $108)
Golden colour; toasty, spicy, apple bouquet with vanilla oak notes; full-bodied, dry, richly extracted and beautifully balanced, unctuous flavours of yellow apple and pie crust on a spine of brisk acidity. Another elegant, seamless wine by winemaker Peter Gamble. (95)

(This new flagship wine will have a waxed top and a hand-written label directly on the glass, signed by Vittorio and his wife Sula.)

On Seven Chardonnays

Thursday, July 17th: Deborah dropped me off at White Oaks for the 14th session of I4C’s School of Cool. The keynote speaker was Clive Pursehouse, North American editor for Decanter magazine. Riffing on the word “cool,” Clive believes that cool climate regions are the future of wine; “Cool is coming and it can’t be stopped” and “wine needs cool voices and cool critics.”

Clive Pursehouse, keynote speaker

Clive moderated the first session, “Modern Chardonnay for the Modern Consumer: What’s Next?,” which included a blind tasting of eight Chardonnays introduced by each winemaker or winery rep:

Eugene Mlynczyk MW conducted the second session: “Sparkling Chardonnay – No Occasion Required.” Again, there were eight wines served blind:

Then we broke for lunch. There was another session after lunch – “Chardonnay’s Coming of Age – A Retrospective,” delivered by Jennifer Kell, PhD which, unfortunately I had to miss as I had to return home to help cook a dinner party for six.

Our guests were Sherri Haigh and Stephen Lamont and Joy and Scott Webster. I opened Henry of Pelham “The Goat Lady” Chardonnay 2024 and Guigal Condrieu La Doriane 2022 (purchased at the winery a couple of years ago), which we served with the apps Sherri had made. With Deborah’s spicy gazpacho, Stratus Blanc de Blancs 2016.

I barbecued steaks, which we served with Greek lemon potatoes, sautéed courgettes and spinach salad with candied walnuts. The wines: Viñedo Chadwick 2016 and Tawse Meritage 2011. Dessert: Strawberry angel cake with a glass of the fortified, barrel-aged Vidal 007 that Craig McDonald had given me. A very successful dinner party!

Saturday, July 19th: Attended a free outdoor concert at the Lock in Port Dalhousie, hosted by Beautification Works Committee. They put on one a month from May to October. This one had an international theme. The performers were local musicians were PK Hummingbird Steel Orchestra and La Fondita Musical. (No wine was harmed during their performance – sadly.)

Also tasted this week: Peller Estates Signature Series Sauvignon Blanc 2022, Big Head Chenin Blanc 2023, Big Head Syrah 2023.

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