A Wine Lover’s Diary, part 926: The Rhône Tour

Monday, May 6^th: Deborah and I flew British Air to Lyon to join our tour group for the tour of the Rhône region. Our bus took us to the 5-star Intercontinental Lyon Hotel Dieu, where we will stay for three days. This landmark property was a hospital for more than eight centuries before its unveiling in 2019 as Lyon’s new premier luxury hotel.

The hotel is ideally situated in Lyon’s Presqu’ile, or “Peninsula” neighbourhood – a narrow strip of land between the Rhône and Saône rivers. Lunched in the hotel’s Le Théodore Bistro des Halles. I ordered Truffled Croque-Monsieur and a bottle of Chapoutier Domaine des Granges de Mirabel Viognier Ardèche 2021.

A late afternoon orientation walking tour of the city centre, which included the magnificent fountain by Frédéric Auguste Bartholdi, who also designed the Statue of Liberty in New York.

The aperitif in the hotel, under the great dome, before dinner: Barons de Rothschild Champagne Concordia Brut.

Our group dinner this evening was at Bulle Restaurant with special guest Nicolas Mielly, Maison Paul Jaboulet Ainé’s Sales Director of La Chapelle Hermitage, who gave us a great introduction to the wines of the northern Rhône. We began the meal with Joseph Perrier Champagne Brut Cuvée Royale.

The wines: Paul Jaboulet Ainé Les Grands Amandiers Condrieu 2020, Le Chevalier de Sterimberg Hermitage Blanc 2020, Hermitage La Maison Bleue 2015, Hermitage La Chapelle 2005, Vin de Paille 2006.

Tuesday, May 7^th: Poached eggs for breakfast in the hotel.

A guided tour of Lyon’s La Croix-Rousse – the former silk-weaving district, which is hosting its weekly market. From here we enjoyed panoramic views as we walked towards the city centre through the vibrant Pentes de la Croix-Rousse district known for its historic architecture, unique shops and impressive street art.

Lunched at Trattoria Carmelo, an Italian restaurant whose walls and ceilings are covered with dinner plates. I had burrata, and spaghetti in Assagio cheese with Olianas Vermentino 2022 from Sardegna.

 

After lunch we drove 55 km north of Lyon to the Beaujolais region for a tasting visit at Château des Jacques. Located in Romanèche-Thorins in the Moulin-à-Vent appellation, this historic property (owned by Burgundy’s Maison Louis Jadot) is widely recognized as the most prestigious estate in Beaujolais.

Dined at Michelin 1* restaurant at Château de Bagnols, a beautifully restored 13^th-century château.

Wednesday, May 8^th: After breakfast in the hotel, we ventured south of Lyon following the Rhône River through the famous steep-terraced vineyards of the AOCs Côte Rôtie, Hermitage and Cornas, source of some of the world’s most powerful and elegant Syrah-based red wines as well as the Viognier-based whites of the AOC Condrieu. Lunch today at the legendary Maison Pic in the town of Valence, a 7-course gastronomic odyssey.

Maison Pic was opened by the Pic family in 1889 and initially earned three stars in the Michelin guide in 1934, soon after its star system was introduced. Over the years and multiple generations of Pic family members in the kitchen, the number of stars has fluctuated but never completely disappeared – the third star was lost in 1946, regained in 1973 and held for 22 years before it was lost in 1995. Current chef Anne-Sophie Pic took over the kitchen in 1998 and returned it to its three-star status in 2007, a position it has retained ever since. Determined – and with no formal training – Anne-Sophie is France’s only female 3-starred Michelin chef (and just the fourth woman ever to receive the honour). She was recognized by the “50 Best Restaurants in the World” listing as the world’s best female chef.

Thursday, May 9^th: Breakfast and AM checkout of the hotel. Returning to the northern Rhône Valley, this morning we have a tasting visit to E. Guigal, one of the most notable wine producers in the Rhône Valley, with perfect 100-point ratings across many vintages.

An open-air climb to a lunch of open-hearth prepared regional specialties at Auberge de Crussol – a former sheepfold adjacent to the ruins of Crussol castle, overlooking the Rhône valley from the AOC Cornas hillside.

Late afternoon arrival in the city of Avignon and the centrally situated hotel for the final four days of the tour – the 5-star Hotel D’Europe, a 16^th-century former mansion of the nobility located a stone’s throw from the town’s many central attractions.

Friday, May 10^th: Following an early breakfast, we enjoyed a guided walking tour of the historic city centre of Avignon, including UNESCO world heritage sites such as the Popes’ Palace and Saint Bénézet Bridge (“Le Pont d’Avignon” of the famed French children’s song. It now costs 9 euros to walk, let alone danse, on the unfinished bridge).

Lunched at La Cour d’Honneur in Avignon. I ordered grilled scallop risotto with a bottle of Domaine de Lôme Bandol Rosé 2023.

Late afternoon tour and tasting visit at Château La Nerthe in Châteauneuf-du-Pape.

 

Early evening departure for our group dinner at L’Oustalet Restaurant in the charming town of Gigondas. This Michelin 1* star restaurant is owned by the Perrin Family, owners of Château Beaucastel (as well as Château Miraval with co-owner Brad Pitt and other leading estates throughout the southern Rhône).

Saturday, May 11^th: After breakfast we visited Les Baux-de-Provence, one of the most beautiful villages of France. This small village and its ruined medieval castle are magnificently perched on a rocky peak of the Alpilles mountain range, with panoramic views over the Camargue plains and the city of Arles. It has a fascinating history dating back to 6000 BC.

Group lunch at nearby Château d’Estoublon (jointly owned by the Prats family of Chateau Cos d’Estournel and singer Carla Bruni with her husband and former French President Nicolas Sarkozy), where we enjoyed a classic Provençal meal following a prepared tasting of the estate’s renowned olive oils and wines.

After lunch we drove through the spectacular Alpille countryside that inspired Van Gogh to paint 150 of his canvases. After which we strolled through the town of Saint Rémy de Provence. Dined outdoors at Carré du Palais in Avignon with Bessie and Rod. Bread rolls served in little canvas baskets. The wines: Guy Frage St. Jospeh 2020, Yannick Alléno and Michel Chapoutier St-Joseph 2022.

Sunday, May 12^th (my birthday): This morning we visited the town of L’Isle-sur-la-Sorgue to stroll around its enormous Sunday antique market.

At Le Grand Café de la Sorgue we lingered over a bottle of Ultimate Provence Rosé 2023, a blend of Syrah and Rolle.

We bussed on to the Luberon, one of the prettiest regions of Provence (and all of France), with its stunning hilltop villages celebrated in Peter Mayle’s classic, A Year in Provence. Our final meal together in our hotel’s elegant restaurant with special guest Guillemette Ferrando, daughter of the famed Châteauneuf-du-Pape producer Isabel Ferrando.

Monday, May 13^th: Taxied to Marseilles for our BA flight to London. (To be continued…)