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A Wine Lover’s Diary, Part 611: El Tenedor

August 21st: Deborah and I went over to Michael and Rosie’s for dinner and I brought along four wines from Joie Farm in the Okanagan to taste:

August 22nd: Wrote my Lexpert column on the British tonic wine Wincarnis that’s been on LCBO shelves since 1958. Then wrote up my 680 NEWS wine reviews for four weeks, as I leave for Tuscany for a week.

In the evening Deborah and I went over to Cesar Penalver’s condo to taste his menu dishes for his new 29-seat restaurant, El Tenedor (“The Fork”), to open at 909 Yonge Street in October. Not knowing what the dishes were I brought over two versatile food wines, Henry of Pelham Estate Riesling 2013 (straw colour with a ime tint; already developing petrol notes above the grapefruit and lime aromas; off-dry, honey and grapefruit flavours in Spätlese style; medium-bodied with a lovely mouth-feel; clean flavours with mouth-freshening acidity (90)) and Yalumba Coonawarra Cabernet Sauvignon 2015 (dense purple-ruby colour; savoury, cedar, black currant, vanilla oak bouquet with a light floral: medium-bodied, dry, elegant and firmly structured (89.5)). A series of dishes arrived:

Ravioli windows – Aged cheddar, cumin and pumpkin seas in a transparent envelope

Tomato tartar

Garden salad with a frozen dressing (which we eat with our fingers, dipping the fresh vegetables into what looks like earth (ground black lentils over a creamy, savoury ice-cream))

Watermelon carpaccio with honey

Zucchini cannelloni stuffed with shrimp

Linguine vongole with baby clams, lemon pepper and garlic

Risotto with scallops, fennel and cauliflower

Lamb sous vide on a pool of pea puree with chicken mousseline

Dessert: Chocolate, orange with a spicy, sweet Marsala


Chef Cesar Penalver working on ravioli windows

(It’s going to be a great restaurant.)

Tuesday, August 23rd: Spent most of the day inputting my wine reviews of the September Vintages release, then tasted a few wines to keep the palate in practice.

Wednesday, August 24th: Recorded my 680 NEWS reviews and spent the rest of the day working on my book. Dinner – pan-fried salmon with San Pedro Gato Nero 9 Lives Chardonnay/Semillon 2015 (straw colour; spicy apple nose with a touch of oak; full-bodied, dry, grassy, apple and pear flavours with a note of green pineapple on the finish).

Thursday, August 25th: Final preparations during the day for a dinner tasting I’m conducting at the Oakdale Golf Club.

The wines:

Friday, August 26th: A Vintages release tasting for September 17th. One hundred and twenty-six wines, of which I tasted half. These tastings get bigger and bigger. I’ve decided that 65 is my limit per day.

 

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